Friday, November 18, 2011

Portsmouth Restaurant Week | Black Trumpet

Along a brick sidewalk that weaves down a quaint New England street bordering a historic port studded with industrial fishing boats, sits a mustard yellow barn door with thin black metal hinges, adorned with a handsome slate sign. Complimentary elements come together to create an inviting facade along a brick back drop - a giant circular sign touting gold lettering swings overhead, black windowpanes form a focal point where plants still bloom in the garden boxes beneath, and a gold striped awning above the door frame is the finishing touch. Located here at 29 Ceres Street is the family owned Black Trumpet Bistro, serving seasonally inspired, widely influenced American cuisine. A staple in the Portsmouth fine dining scene, I had heard plenty of rave reviews but this evening marked my first time in. Up a creaky narrow staircase the intimate wine bar overlooks the Piscataqua River. A cozy cave like dining room defined by heavy wood beam ceilings, exposed brick walls and shiny copper table tops is situated on the first floor. Both of these spaces embody a rustic elegance, fit for a romantic duo or a convivial group of 10.The ladies and I, after solid day at Red Hook Brewery and exploring downtown Portsmouth, cozied up at the wine bar just as it was opening at 5pm. We shared pitchers of the fall inspired Harvest Sangria, made with white wine, lemon, brandy and autumnal spices, before settling into our table downstairs for our 5:30 reservation.We started with a bread bowl of thinly sliced ciabatta and the restaurants signature bread, a crumbly loaf studded with black trumpets and dates. Accompanying them was a creamy butter laced with orange, this unique pairing sparked intrigue and made fans all around the table. I opted to partake in the restaurant week menu, three courses for $29 is certainly a good deal! I started with the delicately prepared Salt Cod Salad made with heirloom squash, pancetta and brussels sprouts, served warm in a sherry apple vinaigrette. The cod was not overly salty nor overly fishy, and as a result of pairing it with classic fall ingredients, the salad struck just the right balance of flavors and texture. You've got a nice sweetness from the heirloom squash, a bitter crunch from the brussels, and a firm bite of saltiness from the pancetta. The sherry vinegar and crisp apple dressing adds depth while tying everything together. For my main course, the Coq au Vin with porcini-cocoa pappardelle, cob smoked bacon and mushrooms was excellent. The chicken was perfectly braised, this traditionally rustic french preparation is clearly something the chef excels at. The pappardelle added a unique flair to the dish, it was a welcome addition to the earthy mushrooms, smokey bacon and savory chicken. Dessert was less exciting in comparison to its predecessors, but still a job well done. I had a few bites of the German Chocolate Beet Brownie with milk chocolate frosting, beet whip and candied orange peel. I wasn't a huge fan of the brownie itself, but that fluffy beet whip topping was pretty awesome. For my Indian Pudding with whipped vanilla custard and golden raisin sauce, I actually expected it would come at a warmer temperature. With a soft set consistency, the pudding still manages to comfort, covered by a blanket of silky vanilla custard over a pool of golden raisins bathing in sweet syrupy goodness. If you find yourself in the city of Portsmouth, you'll be in good company at Black Trumpet. It's definitely worth checking out, both the bistro and wine bar, on separate occasions or all at once. The place was packed as the girls and I made our way out. I was so not ready to leave New Hampshire and head back to Boston, I love it up there!!
Black Trumpet on Urbanspoon

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