Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Summer Lunch Series Part 3: Marliave

This Fridays lunch brought me to The Marliave located at 10 Bosworth Street nestled in the heart of Downtown Crossing. The restaurant building itself is over 135 years old and was first home to a restaurant opened by French Immigrant Henry Marliave in 1885. Then during prohibition it served as a speakeasy and after that a mediocre (so I've read) Italian-American restaurant. The fourth and current incarnation of Marliave has been open for almost three years now; housing a cafe/oyster bar at the ground level and a lively bar paying homage to the speakeasy era with cracked mosaic floors and pressed tin walls on the next floor up. The top level where we were seated for lunch is home to a refined dining room, that keeps in line with the black and white color scheme noticed throughout the other floors. Last time I was here I pulled up a seat at their crowded bar and enjoyed a couple of the noteworthy cocktails. This time around I was thrilled to finally check out the upstairs space and what the kitchen had to offer.I should also mention that Friday was Adam's birthday, and I was treating him to a spontaneous late birthday lunch! We started with cocktails, their large laminated menu giving us a plethora of options from which to choose. I tried the Yellow Journalism ($10) which looks fairly plain but proves to be a tasty libation with Clear Creak Pear Eau-De-Vie, Licor 43, Mionetto Prosecco and Lemon. Adam approved of his Warren G. Harding ($10) with Old Overholt Rye, Lemon and Mint A simple plate of olive oil with green olives and some slices of soft bread were delivered shortly after we placed our order and inhaled just as quickly. We started the meal each with a piping hot bowl of Henry's Soup ($10). It came served in a deep white china bowl resembling a mini cauldron plated over a charming white doyle. The French Onion soup is loaded with sweet caramelized onions, a hearty crouton and thick melted Gruyere cheese. Most noteably, tender bites of short ribs lace the broth taking a classic soup and elevating it to something even more incredible. Definitely one of the better French Onions I have had and the perfect first course to warm up with on a dreary and annoyingly cold and windy Friday afternoon. For his main course, Adam ordered the Mussles ($12) farm raised, roasted tomatoes, garlic and parsley. He definitely enjoyed his birthday lunch, minus the roasted tomatoes! (I'll give him credit for trying one, but tomatoes are still something his palate can't seem to enjoy.) I ordered the salad simply labled Beets ($12) which paired finely diced roasted beets with goat cheese, arugula, black olives and candied walnuts. A paper thin crosini balanced a top the beets, which were compact and plated to resembled that of a typical looking tuna tartare. I thought it was a polished and creative presentation. The creamy and tangy goat cheese and the sweet cruncy walnuts added some great texture and initially helped balance out the strong presence of the beets. However by the end of lunch I felt slightly overwhelmed by the many beets left that lacked enough of the contrasting elements to sustain the balance of the dish the entire way through. I don't want to discount the fact that it was still tasty and for the most part satisfying. Ideally, I would reccomend this as an appetizer better suited for sharing. And maybe, just maybe that French Onion soup was a really tough act to follow. Our waitress was pleasant and the kitchen timed our courses perfectly; granted there were not many clientele in the dining room, but still something to note.
Marliave is a gem of an establishment where the Financial District crowd can enjoy a leusirely lunch or some after work cocktails; I'm almost positive the working professionals in the area would agree. But even if you don't work in the vicinity, Marliave is likely worth venturing downtown for.
Marliave on Urbanspoon

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