Showing posts with label Bolognese. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bolognese. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Party of 14 at Tresca

Saturday night I remained happily in the company of my fun-loving family members. After traveling back at various times from New Hampshire, we reconvened at my apartment for some apertivi before making the walk over to Tresca Restaurant for a 7:30pm dinner reservation. The manager greeted us warmly and made friendly conversation as fourteen of us trickled in off an ever-crowded Hanover Street. We were lead up an elegant marble staircase to the second floor and settled into a table that ran the length of the balcony front windows. Tresca was bustling with a romantic yet lively energy, the restored old world Tuscan Villa atmosphere was a scene everyone could appreciate.
source
Our waiter introduced himself, announcing a prix fix menu option for large parties ($65 per person) which included shared family style appetizers, followed by a pasta course, entree course and dessert course each. We were immediately sold as a group! What can I say, a love for food runs in the family. We drooled over the cocktail menu next, some of us choosing to start with martinis ($11). From my Aunt's White Grape Cosmo to my cousins Pineapple-tini to my classic Dirty Martini, all were well crafted.

The signature antipasti plates were plentiful (and unphotographed, apologies.) The Polpette di Vitello consisting of crispy veal meatballs served with pomodoro and poached garlic and basil dipping sauces were excellent, easily the star of the antipasti plates. The Calamari Fritti garnished with pomodoro and spicy aioli sauce was a suitable preparation. I didn't care for the Spiedini di Agnello which are southern Italian marinated and grilled Lamb skewers; the flavors didn't hit home for me, neither did the texture of the lamb. Once our secondi course consisted of a Rigatoni Bolognese. The pasta at Tresca is handmade daily and the large coils of rigatoni were done to a perfectly toothsome al dente. The traditional northern style veal and pork ragout was hearty and flavorful, enriched with pancetta and tomatoes. The dish was finished with melted Parmesan cheese dusted with thinly sliced strands of basil. It was everything I would expect from a great bolognese, rustic with a refined simplicity.
Service was sufficient but not standout. I thought our waiter was pleasant, but not 100% on the ball. Normally, I wouldn't gripe about service woes for a party of fourteen, but for what Tresca aims to be - a fine dining establishment charging prices to fit the bill, I held them accountable to a higher standard. (For example, clearing plates timely in between courses.) Perhaps I set my expectations too high, since I know certain restaurants in the North End won't even consider taking reservations for parties as large as ours on a Saturday evening or at all.
The evident strain on the kitchen and restaurant as a whole were highlighted on a few more ocassions. First, it began to get hot. Really, really hot. The room appeared to be well ventilated, but whatever air was circulating from the ceiling vents was doing nothing to cool us down. Rarely, if ever, will you hear me complain about temperature, but I honestly can't recall a time I became so uncomfortably sweaty and hot in a restaurant. Second, my principali course was a disappointment entirely. The Selvaggio della Sera which is the chefs hand selected game special was Duck served with pear au jus, a rosemary polenta cake and pear salad. The waiter made sure to question if the chefs preparation of the duck medium rare would suffice. Duck cooked to medium rare is ideal, I was happy to oblige. The duck served to me was rare, with certain slices border-lining on completely raw in the center. This isn't an ahi tuna steak! To make matters worse, my (serrated) knife was met with an abrasive coarse exterior, the skin on certain slices impenetrable. The polenta cake was underwhelming and the sad looking pear slices were just that. They did nothing to elevate an already defeated duck. No one around me had this entree, but once I finally looked down to the other end of the table, my Mom and Aunt Cheryl were sending their duck back. At that point I had already poked an prodded and didn't have it in me to send mine back too, but I am glad they both did. Others who ordered the Seared Sea Bass, were the lucky recipients of a superb fish entree. They sang its praises. I did try a few bites and concurred with its greatness. However, to add insult to former injury, the Lobster Gnocchi (ordered by Adam and a few others) wasn't quite up to par. The usually plump and pillowy dumplings were tiny and meek in appearance and rather soggy in texture, overwhelmed by a thick cream sauce. It was so uninspiring I opted not to photograph.
The traditional slices of Tiramisu for dessert were delicious, the espresso soaked lady fingers layered with rum infused mascarpone hit all the right notes. But the final course as a high point was not enough to have me shouting from the rooftops of redemption.
I come from a family of positive, blissfully happy people who manage to, like me, enjoy themselves even through major kitchen downfalls and malfunctioning air conditioners. I still smile about the cocktails and the veal meatballs and the rigatoni bolognese, even after I was served raw duck and was sweating profusely from lack of proper ventilation. What I am trying to say is, while Tresca did manage to hit some high points, I was disappointed with the experience overall. In a fiercely competitive neighborhood you need to consistently deliver in order to become worthy of long lasting praise. You need to shine in every aspect of the experience and Tresca falls short. They can't all be Mamma Maria's, they can't all cook duck like Keith Pooler, and so it goes.
Tresca on Urbanspoon

Monday, December 27, 2010

Blizzard Revelry

The first snowstorm of the season fills me up with excitement! Here in Boston we have about a foot and a half. I can't think of a more beautiful commute to work than trekking through the fluffy white stuff. That sparkling glow about the restaurant facades and city streets is magnificent! It is times like these I can appreciate to the utmost extent living close to work, not having a car to worry about and relying on underground public transportation. Enjoy my commute!
North Street
 North Square
Ristorante Limoncello
Richmond Street
Ristorante Mare
Hanover Street
Hanover Street opposite direction
Ristorante Fiore
Making my way
Rose Kennedy Greenway
Haymarket T Station
Last night I had the pleasure of being snowed in with some friends who were in town for the holidays!
With flights back to Denver cancelled / scheduled for later in the week, an impromptu visit from Laura and Craig prompted a cozy dinner at the always lovely Florentine Cafe.
A few glasses of red wine deep at this point, I decided to sip on a Peroni ($5)
We shared a couple of appetizers and each enjoyed a classic Italian entree.
Caprese Salad ($9) Red & yellow vine ripe tomatoes with fresh mozzarella, basil, aged balsamic vinegar & extra virgin olive oil.
Prosciutto E Pear ($13) Parma Prosciutto with caramelized pear, olive oil, age balsamic & goat cheese side of toast.
Tagliatelle al la Bolognese ($23) Egg Tagliatelle tossed with veal tenderloin, ground beef, ground pork, onions, bacon, carrots, celery, basil, in a garlic white wine tomato sauce.
We certainly enjoyed the snowstorm! If you are local, I hope you did too, whether it was spent outside or in.
Florentine Cafe provided a welcome respite from the cold snowy neighborhood with gracious hospitality and good Italian food. Inside the European cafe with fresco painted walls and white linen tablecloths, tastefully decorated wood panneled windows showcased views of the snow falling on Hanover Street. A cozy space to enjoy the company of friends, we left satisfied and full!
Florentine Cafe on Urbanspoon

Sunday, September 26, 2010

New Eats in Brookline: The Abbey

Opened on September 21st in the former Dalia's Bistro and Wine Bar, The Abbey serving new American comforts, specialty cocktails, draft and bottled micro brews, domestic beers and an ample selection of Irish Whiskey and single malt scotch, finds a home in Washington Square. GBG, LB and I met at D's apartment where we sipped sake before heading outbound on the green line. We arrived at 1657 Beacon Street, stepping into an extremely dim lit space roaring with conversation. The space which was once occupied by intimate velvet booths, rich chocolate wood table tops, gray walls and carpeted floors, is completely redone with exposed brick walls, rows of square wooden tables and hardwood floors. We put our names in and grabbed the next available seats to open up at the glossy wood bar and ordered ourselves some wine. Its opening no secret, The Abbey was packed with patrons on this warm September Friday evening. I sipped on an unoaked Chardonnay (they also offer oaked.) Once we were seated, the menu was perused in anticipation as the wine, cocktails and conversations continued to flow. I ordered a Galliano Sour ($10) Galliano, brandy, bitters, lemon juice, simple syrup and one egg white. Unexpectedly more sweet compared to sour or bitter, I just now learned / (googled) / refreshed my mind regarding Galliano. Adventurous in my drink choices, but not always informed, Gallliano is a sweet herbal Italian liqueur. We were served bread with a zesty garlic hummus and started with a few small appetizer plates. The Fried Halloumi Cheese ($4) is an unusual and tasty appetizer served with a tangy yogurt dipping sauce. Halloumi is made with sheeps and goats milk and can be pan-fried without melting. This creates an incredibly unique texture where the light crispy batter breaks exposing warm, dry and salty cheese crumbles. We enjoyed side dishes including the Spicy Julienned Snow Peas ($4.50) which were sauteed and flavored with a bold kick and an unpictured plate of Hoisin BBQ Broccoli ($4.50). Our entrees were served when we realized the waitress forgot about our Lamb Lollipops. Disappointing only for a minute, as I was excited to try the dish, it seemed a blessing in disguise as the ladies and I knew we ordered plenty of food otherwise. We also shared the Truffle Fries ($4.50) A beautiful plate of crispy well seasoned with parsley and parmesan fries were enjoyed dipped in the side of roasted garlic mayo. And for the finale of foods - my entree the Bison Bolognese ($17) served with fresh linguine and romano cheese was a just right portion size of a really excellent dish. Not too overwhelming, a thoughtful and fun presentation, I was thoroughly satisfied by the tender pasta and the plentiful chunks of ground bison. Bison is just a tad sweeter and provides a fuller, more rich taste compared to ground beef.

The team behind the Abbey - Washington Square Tavern alums Chef Josh Sherman and bartender Damian Dowling, combined with Gina Medaglia owner and operator of Dalia's have a launched a near flawless establishment in less than a week. They don't take reservations, but they are open for lunch, dinner, and late night eats so there is ample opportunity to check out the new digs. They don't plan to compete with established bars across the street (The Publick House, American Craft) but instead strive to bring something different to the block. I used to live on Beacon and Engelwood not to far up the road, so I'm impressed to see positive change and reasonably priced food in a neighborhood near and dear to my heart.

The girls and I headed off to Delux for a few more drinks. I called it an earlier night than usual when Delux closed up shop at 1:ooam. An early wake-up call for a day at the spa awaited!