Carmen Trattoria

I have lived in the North End for a long time now and still I am never without a different restaurant to try. I love discovering new-to-me-spots just as much as I adore revisiting old favorites. Carmen is one I immediately came to regret not visiting sooner. An small trattoria tucked away in the ever quaint cobblestone lined North Square, Carmen serves memorable Italian cuisine in a intensely dark and extremely cozy brick walled space. The cave like interior with a wine bar nestled in the front is perfect for an intimate date night, while the dimly lit close quarters make for less than ideal photo conditions. (Sorry! I never post without photos, but I'm beginning to realize, exceptions can and should be made.) The cuisine is defined as old country Italian, it remains comforting with a sophisticated touch.

Definitely order the Steamed Wellfleet Clams ($16) with hot homemade mustard, fennel and cream to begin the meal. A heaping bowl of plump briny delicacies come bathing in a tantalizing cream where sliced fennel accompanies grainy mustard pearls. This dish is exquisitely pungent on multiple levels, not only do the clams benefit from an innovative preparation, I was eating the creamy, spicy, mustard laced broth by the spoonful. When I state bluntly that you should order these clams, I mean it. This is probably one of the best appetizers I've ate all year. Maybe ever

For my entree I chose the Orichiette ($25) which came with sweet Italian sausage, broccoli rabe, tomatoes and herbed bread crumbs. The orichiette itself was excellent, cooked to a toothsome al dente, while the the broccoli rabe and the sweet Italian sausage were equally delicious. The dish had one major downfall being that the tomato sauce was severely over-salted. It tasted like the result of an unfortunate kitchen mishap, but I can not say for sure as I have only been here once. The red sauce became more abrasive with every bite, to eventually overpower the well executed ingredients. If you've been reading this blog for awhile, then you know that my palate is pretty easy to please, meaning I rarely complain about and I can definitely handle my salt.

Adam ordered the Pan Seared Duck Breast ($29) in a pomegranate reduction with sauteed kale and sweet potato puree. This was fantastic. Next time, I'd skip the red sauce dishes and head straight for the duck. A tender pan seared breast comes executed to the desired medium rare with a crispy skin in a luscious pomegranate reduction, with a smooth and creamy sweet potato puree and plenty of savory sauteed kale. Red sauce is pretty basic, so I would give Carmen the benefit of the doubt on this one and not hold it against them. Especially since I still liked the components of my dish, and I loved everything else we ate. And I was smitten with the romantic interior and we had great service. Our hostess was welcoming and bubbly and our waitress fit the bill, she was professional yet easy going. It was a lovely date night. I'm so bummed for all that salt!

All things considered, they still get my vote. The next time you are faced with the daunting task of where to eat out in the North End, don't hesitate to consider Carmen at 33 North Street. If you've already been, what's your review?

Oxo Tower Restaurant

Situated on London's South Bank rising over the River Thames, the Oxo Tower Restaurant is a luxe dining destination where modern British and Mediterranean cuisine are met with sparkling vistas of the city. The swank 8th floor bar and dining room illuminated in blue and red hues is polished in white linens and ultra modern leather chairs. The contrast of warm lighting blanketing from the shuttered ceilings onto an art deco influenced space is striking, matched by the stunning panorama out the gaping angular floor-to-ceiling, wall-to-wall windows. Most notably St. Pauls Cathedral stands out in the distance and the River Thames reflections twinkle in the foreground.
Tricia had dined here back in 2008 and had a feeling another fantastic experience was store if we returned. She didn't steer us wrong! We were greeted warmly by maitre'd as we stepped in off the elevators, she took our coats and umbrellas and showed us a seat at the bar area.
Instantly charmed by the bold elegance and potted poinsettias, I snapped a few photos and shortly after we were shown our table.The cocktails we had just ordered swiftly followed in our footsteps. True to form, the Aperol based sparkling libation caught my eye. Combining my favorite orange bitters with another orange liqueur called Mandarine Napoleon along with crushed peach, passion fruit and a charge of Prosecco the Riveria (£13.50) appeased but at a lofty price point.
Tricia chose the Black Libertine (£9.95) made with crushed fresh blackberry, Drambuie Liquor and lime juice. Forgoing an appetizer since our late lunch (almost an early dinner) of fish and chips kept our appetites at bay, we jumped right into the mains. Apparently, where fish is concerned, I couldn't get enough this trip. (All the photos had a crazy blue tint, I thought the b&w was easier on the eyes in some instances.)

This gorgeous plate of food would be the Cornish Stone Sea Bass, black risotto, baby squid, sea purslane, lemon oil (£27.50). The presentation instantly wowed, striking an aesthetically pleasing balance that was exciting without overwhelming. Every element was perfectly in its place and the dusting of salts and sea purslane across the white canvas were a thoughtful touch.

Taste wise, the dish far exceeded my expectations, beginning but certainly not ending with the expertly seared piece of Cornish sea bass. The generally mild fish benefited from a simple preparation, where delicately crisp and toasty skin gives way to buttery, lemony, melt-in-your mouth flesh. The other components only further enhanced my adoration. Squeaky clean squid tentacles mingled with strips of nicely sauteed haricot verts over a compact and generous portion of jet-black risotto. I typically come across squid ink in pasta form, but I relished its heightened flavors as it absorbed the tender rice. Building from the briny seafood essence, there's an understated richness, a subtle murky deep sea flavor with a complex mouthfeel that fulfills a high honor of complimenting that beautiful fish.

Tricia ordered the Roast and braised wild duck, goats curd and cinnamon dumpling, coriander caramel (£25.50). Benefiting from a flawless preparation and a unique flavor profile, I really enjoyed the couple bites I had. The coriander caramel seemed risky but somehow worked with the roast bird.

Our interactions with the waitstaff at Oxo Tower were interestingly enough, all over the map. Our first server at the bar was highly engaging and genuine, his bright personable nature was followed up by one-note table service; which was mostly courteous and timely. Towards the end, one server became all too fussy and his presence felt slightly imposing. (Hovering, awkward conversations, unsolicited advice.) And was that just a poor attempt at an upsell or is he genuinely concerned that we only ordered one small dessert to share? (Giving him the benefit of the doubt...) Once we were presented the tiny dessert of Hazelnut parfait, poached pears, lemon verbena (£8) his gesture made a little more sense. Despite the fact that I thought it could have been double the size, it was absolutely lovely. The parfait was ultra creamy, complimented by a crumbly lemon verbena cookie, soft delicately poached pears, a crunchy caramel nougat and plated alongside cute little meringue teardrops. Above all, the menu showcases a wide variety of beautifully prepared dishes, executed precisely and in harmony with exciting ingredients. Detractors claim you pay for the view, can you blame them? Even if you likely are (hello $20 cocktail) the food rises to the occasion. If you're looking to splurge or celebrate a special evening in London, allow Oxo Tower Restaurant to entice you.

Al Fresco Dining at Rialto

In 1992 Esquire Magazine named Jody Adams one of America’s best young chefs to keep your eye on. Four years later Bon Apetit named Rialto one of the top 25 hotel restaurants in the country. In 1997 she won a James Beard Award. Clearly, people took Esquire's advice because that list goes on. And on. And present day, over fifteen years later, this amicable chef is still delighting restaurant goers and Charles Hotel visitors with her simple yet sophisticated approach to Italian cuisine. Inside, Rialto's peaceful dining room with sweeping gauze curtains and soothing color tones overlooks Harvard Square. It was here where I first experienced not only Jody's cooking by way of a three course lunch; but her warmth and generosity as a person and prowess as a chef through a demonstrative cooking class. This time around, I was joined by my friends Amy, Emily, Megan and Bianca for dinner on the terrace. Equally as relaxing, and relatively new to the scene (opened last spring) is the shaded outdoor space defined by an orange awning, those same wispy curtains and strands of small white light bulbs. We started off with cocktails, I ordered an Equinox ($11) Hayman’s Old Tom gin, Aperol, grapefruit & lemon bitters.Aperol is my latest go-to, this Italian Apertif delights with its presence in various cocktails both in taste and in presentation (that bright orange color, swoon!) In addition, we were greeted with a glass of bubbly poured by Rialto's Wine Director, Allie Foote. To eat this evening we shared a little bit of everything. The appetizers began with Lourdes’ Burrata ($15) served with pickled greens, sliced fava beans and spiced anchovy. I love the understated whimsy to the presentation, the colorful elements forming a little circus ring around the burrata.A salad appropriately named Simple Lettuce ($12) consisted of frisee and pickled melons coated lightly in a lemon chardonnay vinaigrette. I do think $12 seemed overpriced for a small salad, but I did enjoy this as a light starter.

Once our waitress described the Cod Cheeks special, we quickly added that onto our order. Delicate batter encased morsels of fresh cod served with a creamy elevated tartar sauce, radishes and ramps, this was one of my favorites!

The Prosciutto di Parma ($16) was excellent, beholding a soft stinky blue cheese, arugula, thinly shaved beets and walnuts.Off the bar menu we couldn't pass up some Crispy Fried Calamari ($7) with your standard pepperoncini, lemon and olive oil.

I am so glad Bianca convinced us to order the Roasted Duck Sandwich ($12) loaded with Gruyère, gingered figs and hand cut fries. The fries are more like chips, but they are truly sensational, as is the sandwich. On the other hand, $12 was a pretty reasonable price for this sandwich, proving the bar menu extremely worth while if you're dining on a budget!

The chef sent out three complimentary side dishes. The first was Local Barley ($8) which I didn't care for - I guess I'm just not a huge barley fan?

However, I loved the Pan Seared Mushrooms ($8) flavored with herbs, shallots, white balsamic and served in the cutest mini cast iron cauldron.

I was also a fan of the Spring Vegetables ($8) which were cooked until tender in shallots and parsley.

Rialto's pasta dishes are remarkable. They are offered in half portions, ideal for those of us who like to sample and share. The Lobster Bucatini ($16/$30) is made with green and red tomatoes and seasoned with chilis and saffron.

The Orecchiette ($15/$28) has greens, garlic scapes and housemade sausage. The pastas embrace a delicate elegance and both prove incredibly satisfying.

You will want to linger over dessert at Rialto, where pairing fresh seasonal fruits with expertly constructed pastries and a dusting of nuts are the main focus. The Rhubarb Rose Meringue ($12) with pistachio and strawberry-rhubarb sorbet was a flawless example.

Sfogliatelle ($12) was sent out with the chef's compliments. The raspberry mint sorbet and pine nut sauce was a refreshingly unique combination.

The Summer Fruit Crostata ($12) with brandied blackberries and a peach ice cream to finish off the trio was equally as exciting.

Rialto proved tonight why it continues to stand out among a crowd, whether you narrow it down to the Harvard Square scene, broaden the scope to include Cambridge and Boston dining alike, or look to the vast category of Hotel Restaurants and Bars nationwide. As with my lunch and cooking class last November, I will fondly remember this summer evening on the patio!

Party of 14 at Tresca

Saturday night I remained happily in the company of my fun-loving family members. After traveling back at various times from New Hampshire, we reconvened at my apartment for some apertivi before making the walk over to Tresca Restaurant for a 7:30pm dinner reservation. The manager greeted us warmly and made friendly conversation as fourteen of us trickled in off an ever-crowded Hanover Street. We were lead up an elegant marble staircase to the second floor and settled into a table that ran the length of the balcony front windows. Tresca was bustling with a romantic yet lively energy, the restored old world Tuscan Villa atmosphere was a scene everyone could appreciate.

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Our waiter introduced himself, announcing a prix fix menu option for large parties ($65 per person) which included shared family style appetizers, followed by a pasta course, entree course and dessert course each. We were immediately sold as a group! What can I say, a love for food runs in the family. We drooled over the cocktail menu next, some of us choosing to start with martinis ($11). From my Aunt's White Grape Cosmo to my cousins Pineapple-tini to my classic Dirty Martini, all were well crafted.

The signature antipasti plates were plentiful (and unphotographed, apologies.) The Polpette di Vitello consisting of crispy veal meatballs served with pomodoro and poached garlic and basil dipping sauces were excellent, easily the star of the antipasti plates. The Calamari Fritti garnished with pomodoro and spicy aioli sauce was a suitable preparation. I didn't care for the Spiedini di Agnello which are southern Italian marinated and grilled Lamb skewers; the flavors didn't hit home for me, neither did the texture of the lamb. Once our secondi course consisted of a Rigatoni Bolognese. The pasta at Tresca is handmade daily and the large coils of rigatoni were done to a perfectly toothsome al dente. The traditional northern style veal and pork ragout was hearty and flavorful, enriched with pancetta and tomatoes. The dish was finished with melted Parmesan cheese dusted with thinly sliced strands of basil. It was everything I would expect from a great bolognese, rustic with a refined simplicity.

Service was sufficient but not standout. I thought our waiter was pleasant, but not 100% on the ball. Normally, I wouldn't gripe about service woes for a party of fourteen, but for what Tresca aims to be - a fine dining establishment charging prices to fit the bill, I held them accountable to a higher standard. (For example, clearing plates timely in between courses.) Perhaps I set my expectations too high, since I know certain restaurants in the North End won't even consider taking reservations for parties as large as ours on a Saturday evening or at all.

The evident strain on the kitchen and restaurant as a whole were highlighted on a few more ocassions. First, it began to get hot. Really, really hot. The room appeared to be well ventilated, but whatever air was circulating from the ceiling vents was doing nothing to cool us down. Rarely, if ever, will you hear me complain about temperature, but I honestly can't recall a time I became so uncomfortably sweaty and hot in a restaurant. Second, my principali course was a disappointment entirely. The Selvaggio della Sera which is the chefs hand selected game special was Duck served with pear au jus, a rosemary polenta cake and pear salad. The waiter made sure to question if the chefs preparation of the duck medium rare would suffice. Duck cooked to medium rare is ideal, I was happy to oblige. The duck served to me was rare, with certain slices border-lining on completely raw in the center. This isn't an ahi tuna steak! To make matters worse, my (serrated) knife was met with an abrasive coarse exterior, the skin on certain slices impenetrable. The polenta cake was underwhelming and the sad looking pear slices were just that. They did nothing to elevate an already defeated duck. No one around me had this entree, but once I finally looked down to the other end of the table, my Mom and Aunt Cheryl were sending their duck back. At that point I had already poked an prodded and didn't have it in me to send mine back too, but I am glad they both did. Others who ordered the Seared Sea Bass, were the lucky recipients of a superb fish entree. They sang its praises. I did try a few bites and concurred with its greatness. However, to add insult to former injury, the Lobster Gnocchi (ordered by Adam and a few others) wasn't quite up to par. The usually plump and pillowy dumplings were tiny and meek in appearance and rather soggy in texture, overwhelmed by a thick cream sauce. It was so uninspiring I opted not to photograph.

The traditional slices of Tiramisu for dessert were delicious, the espresso soaked lady fingers layered with rum infused mascarpone hit all the right notes. But the final course as a high point was not enough to have me shouting from the rooftops of redemption.

I come from a family of positive, blissfully happy people who manage to, like me, enjoy themselves even through major kitchen downfalls and malfunctioning air conditioners. I still smile about the cocktails and the veal meatballs and the rigatoni bolognese, even after I was served raw duck and was sweating profusely from lack of proper ventilation. What I am trying to say is, while Tresca did manage to hit some high points, I was disappointed with the experience overall. In a fiercely competitive neighborhood you need to consistently deliver in order to become worthy of long lasting praise. You need to shine in every aspect of the experience and Tresca falls short. They can't all be Mamma Maria's, they can't all cook duck like Keith Pooler, and so it goes.