New Eats in Kendall Square: Catalyst

The former chef of 28 Degrees and Aujourd'hui is serving up locally sourced modern American cuisine inside a once vacant warehouse turned casually elegant dining space at 300 Technology Square. William Kovel's Catalyst warmly welcomes guests with a two-sided fireplace, a salvaged steel herb garden wall, hand blown glass light fixtures and potted succulents. The shiny industrial meets rustic reclaimed wood space is immaculate, the 30 foot sweeping windows immense and the rest of the contemporary decor is charming.

Megan, Bridget, Elizabeth, Shannon, Emily, Bianca and I were welcomed by the chef; he treated us to a splendid tasting of the menu. Appetizers and entrees were shared family style and desserts were showcased by way of individual sample platters.

I started with a composed cocktail, the Grey Dawn ($10) made with Greylock, Aperol, orange and Peychauds bitters. It wasn't particularly exciting in comparison to some of my past Aperol libations, but it still got the job done. (Read - nicely laced with gin.)As the dishes are prepared with food that celebrates the seasons, the current menu is focused on the summer to fall staples from local purveyors and farms. The Farmers Market Vegetable Salad ($9) was light, fresh and delicious with ever so slightly pickled carrots, onions and beets under peppercress and crispy onions. Crispy Quail ($15) was also excellent, enhanced by a black mission fig gastrique, minuza greens and autumn berry jam. The small gamey bird benefited from a delicate preparation and sweet syrupy pairings. Don't underestimate the Grilled Scallions ($6) served in a deeply flavorful walnut pesto. I imagine this dish on the side menu gets overlooked, (I wouldn't have given it a second glance) but they ended up being a table favorite. Grilling the scallions really seemed to heighten their otherwise mild onion flavor, the rich nutty pesto and soft set walnuts making them all the more swoon worthy.The Chicken Liver Mousse ($10) spoke to me with balanced and unobtrusive flavors. Soft and spreadable with a vessel of grilled country bread, a grainy mustard counterpart, pickled onions and a tiny herb salad, this was a surprisingly likable starter.
A ray of sunshine among a table of leafy greens and earth toned appetizers, the juicy orange yuzus and accompanying syrup brightened up the ensemble in a dish of Seared Spice Crusted Hiramasa ($11). The thinly sliced fish mingled nicely in a zesty cucumber radish salad. I was thrilled when the Jerusalem "Sunchoke" Artichoke Soup ($9) was sent out, since sharing family style doesn't always prompt the chef to go with soup. The Jerusalem artichoke has no relation to Jerusalem and it is not a type of artichoke, but the flowers edible tuber actually resembles the taste of one. This frothy soup with a drizzle of curry oil for contrast was buttery with touches of both sweet and bitterness at once. The homemade pasta courses at Catalyst are simply radiant, imparted with warm melted butter based sauces that give a luxurious edge to the fresh ingredients. A tubular pasta with wide corduroy ridges, Garganelli ($10) proves a fun shape to eat. Ultimate luxury comes in the form of an earthy black truffle butter sauce, and small bites of crispy bacon enhance with a touch of smokiness. Chicken oysters look the part, and are just about the smoothest most tender bite of chicken you never knew existed. Braised escarole greens lend bitterness while roasted carrot pearls give an extra touch of sweetness to the Candy Roaster Georgia Squash Tortellini ($10/$18) swimming in a golden buttery sauce. Flat toothsome pasta is folded up like an envelope to create a rustic tortellini of sorts, finished off with shaved Parmesan cheese. For the hat trick, Mushroom Ravioli ($10/$18) with hen of the woods mushrooms is a double dose of these earthy fall delights, also known as "the king of fall mushrooms." Smooth juicy caps and thick firm stems bathing in a flavorful cream sauce were lovely paired with purses of soft mushroom filling. The balance of textures is what truly allows all that mushroom to harmonize in one dish. Pasta certainly had us filled to the brim. The interlude of a a delicate fish, perfectly prepared to boot, the Lemon Sole ($27) with roasted baby fennel, creamed leeks and lobster (yes there is lobster under that fish!) in a vermouth butter was a solid entree. So was the dish up next featuring Chilled Pork, however, this entree does not appear on the menu.
Encrusted in a flavorful spice rub, the pork was nicely prepared and serving it cold with accompanying shaved apple slices and puree, fresh cilantro and a tart balsamic sauce worked in its favor. An impressive tasting of each dessert in miniature form, the folks at Catalyst truly took a go big or go home approach to this dinner. I was ever so grateful for their generosity and this personalized touch. My favorite by far and away was the Butterscotch and Passionfruit Pudding ($9) with a warm pound cake crouton. Ripe tropical passionfruit and the classic brown sugar and butter confection have come together to create a love child, it is this pudding. No matter how full you are after eating 3 courses of pasta, you must try this dessert. We also sampled the juicy Bosc Pear Tart over house made creme fraiche ice cream, a Housemade Cantaloupe Sorbet ($9) with hazelnut brittle, and a Coconut Cake with creamsicle ice cream and chocolate ganache. Proving you can fit right in by standing out, Catalyst is a fantastic addition to Kendall Square. If you live or work in the area, it's the neighbor you always wish you had. And if you don't, it's absolutely worth a trip!

Market by Jean-Georges

Tuesday evening after a few cocktails and appetizers in the swanky W Hotel Lounge, and learning how to smorganize, Megan and I made a spontaneous decision to grab dinner across the hall at Market. A concept launched by the well known French Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, his aim is to provide locally produced and seasonal "market" ingredients with an eclectic twist. Emphasizing comfort and creativity, the menu reinvents classic dishes from other regions, all while remaining close to home.

The restaurant itself is intriguing and captivating. The super low lighting and long opaque curtains create an intimate space, while the modern furniture and simple understated decor define casual and relaxed. It was fairly busy, but we were seated right away at a small table overlooking Tremont Street.

We decided to share a half bottle of Duckhorn Sauvignon Blanc ($34). There is no doubt we could have polished off a full bottle, but at this point in the evening, I appreciated that they offered them by the half.

This 2008 wine from Napa Valley was light, crisp and refreshing (isn't that how I describe all white wines?) but still, that's how the majority of them really do taste (to me.) It just so happened the bright citrus notes paired seamlessly with the dishes we chose. We decided to share a few smaller plates (saving room for dessert in the meantime, I just had a sense....) and we began with the enticing Tuna Tartare ($15) made with avocado, spicy Radish and ginger dressing. Our waiter took the time to explain these were heirloom radishes and in addition, the tartare was draped in a sweet chili oil.

The precision in which the paper thin radishes were sculpted balancing atop one another still have me in awe. I thought this dish embodied the restaurant concept in a nutshell - the classic tartare you know and love with melt in your mouth high quality tuna and creamy avocado, was elevated to not only an art form, but a new level of taste and texture with the addition of radishes, ginger and sweet chili oil. We split the Frisèe and Goat Cheese Salad ($11) which was thoughtfully presented to us in separate portions. The salad consisted of pickled peaches, crystallized wasabi and candied pistachios. Sure you've had peaches and pistachios and likely wasabi . But have you ever had pickled peaches, candied pistachio or crystalized wasabi? Me neither! And what salad isn't better with the addition of soft, tangy, creamy goat cheese? The peaches were deliciously sweet and slightly acidic. The candied pistachios offered a sweet nuttiness in contrast to the goat cheese and slight heat of the wasabi crystals. I enjoyed every bite of this simply plated, texturally complex salad.

The pizzas here serve as appetizers. I love the idea of pizza as an app and seafood on pizza ever since I experienced this incredible combo (scallops, shrimp and calamari) at Mare. Tonight, it was the Maine Lobster Pizza ($14) with a three cheese blend, lemon juice and olive oil that won me over. Two pieces each were the perfect bites, but I probably could have eaten an entire large pizza pie of this combination. The lobster was plentiful in every bite. The thick melted fontina and parmesan cheeses were the source of comfort, while the very prevalent lemon juice and zest elevated the pizzas flavor, making the dish truly memorable and crave worthy.

Our waiter tonight was prompt and precise. He was also genuine and took the time to explain the dishes as he served them. We never had to wait too long in between plates, with the exception of dessert. But that's because we ordered the Concord Grape Soufflé ($8) which came with a praline sauce and a concord grape sorbet.

This.was.phenomenal. If you have the opportunity to dine at Market, do yourself a favor and order the souffle. Grape being the less obvious choice, we decided to go out in a limb and skip over the chocolate cake and ice cream sundae options. While I'm sure they were refined and elegant, this was adventurous and bold.

Your classic PB&J flavors are reinvented with an eclectic flair; the fluffy grape cake and luscious Hazelnut and Almond praline sauce were most definitely reminiscent of the elementary school lunch staple. Nostalgic favors aside, the souffle was light and custard-y, perfectly executed.
The grape sorbet was a lusciously flavorful and welcome accompaniment. Move over panna cotta and creme brulee. Souffle might just be my new favorite dessert. Each dish served tonight was innovative and exciting, and the emphasis on fresh, local ingredients is always appreciated. This being my second visit, the service was once again top notch. With Markets consistent approach to service and creative approach to food, this is one restaurant I would smorganize in my "Favorites" bite book for sure!

Summer Lunch Series Part 9: Trattoria Il Panino

Friday came quick this week! For lunch today I was sticking close to home. I had my eyes dilated earlier this morning and my vision was still a little funky.
Trattoria il Panino, located at 11 Parmenter Street, is one of those spots I walk by often, lusting over the spacious tables on the sun drenched patio and salivating over the plates full of thick creamy pastas. I know, shocker that here in Little Italy everyone was eating a plate full of pasta. Well they looked good to say the least and I always kept this restaurant titled "Boston's First Original Trattoria" in the back of my mind. Today, a comforting plate of pasta was just what I craved. As I approached the patio and stood in front of the host, in an awkward moment I had to greet him. "Hello are you the host?"
"Yes."
"Can I have a table?"
"Alone?!" he questioned in a completely surprised at the same time sympathetic I-feel-so-sorry for-you-why-the-heck-are-you-eating-alone tone. "Oh noooo Bella" he echoed in a heavy Italian accent under his breath. I proclaimed proudly that it was my day off and that I liked eating alone. No need to feel sorry for me or question my decisions. Your job is to act polite and seat me. I don't mean to sound like that person, but you'd be surprised the tone it sets when the host or hostess greets you warmly with a big smile, versus questioning whether or not you have friends. I know that he genuinely didn't mean anything by it, and I am probably reading way to much into it right now but it just felt a little unprofessional. It felt off.
I was handed a food menu, but no wine or cocktail list. I sat for awhile before I was greeted by my waiter, who seemed a little frazzled. He introduced himself as Hector. The outdoor seating area was completely packed. I took notice of about half a dozen other waitstaff bustling about. Hector took the time to explain the specials, his thick Italian accent pouring out at rapid speed. I wasn't concerned with specials because I already had plenty of opportunity to ponder over the menu, which looked fairly traditional and seemed in line with the Trattoria's theme of Mediterranean Cuisine of the Amalfi Coast.

Before Hector could scurry off, I requested a wine list. It is the simplest of things that when done right, that can make all the difference in the world. I am beginning to realize this as I dine out more and more. I just expect to be handed a drink menu with my food menu as I am seated, or handed it at least without having to ask.
Alright friends, now here's the kicker. In all my years of eating and drinking out in Boston, never have I ever encountered this scenario.
Hector: "Can I get you a bottle of water?"
Daisy thinks: Why is he trying to upsell me? Why don't I get a choice, bottle or tap? This is rather annoying.
Daisy responds: "No thanks, tap will be fine."
Hector: "Oh no Bella, we don't have tap."
Daisy thinks: I live down the street. I drink the tap water on a daily basis. I'm not a tourist you are fooling into thinking the city water is unsuitable for drinking.
Daisy responds: "Um ok sure, I'll take the bottle."
Daisy thinks: It's way too hot out here to endure lunch without water.
Hector: "I get you a small bottle."
Daisy thinks: Damn right you'll get me a small bottle.

I was caught completely off guard and I'm sure the look on my face didn't hide my dismay. In my head the sounds of a cash register rang loud cha-ching, cha-ching as I wondered how much this bottle was going to set me back.

I'm a glass half full kinda person. So at this point I'm thinking - at least the authentic Italian mineral water in that shiny green glass bottle adds character to my pictures.
I'm over the water and I'm marveling at the bread basket accompanied by a small bowl of olive oil and balsamic vinegar. The bread was delightfully fresh and tasted like it had been baked in house that morning and it was evident that they served high quality olive oil. To drink I decided on a glass of Sauvignon Blanc ($9). They were out of this wine, so I chose the Chardonnay ($9). All of their wines by the glass cost $9. They offered no Prosecco by the glass which was slightly disappointing because I was more than willing to consider a glass of bubbly this afternoon. I ate two slices of bread and read The Reality Pool (tables definitely looked over when I couldn't hold in my laughter) on my iPhone before Hector returned to take my order. "No appetizer for you today Bella?" Really Hector, are you trying to upsell me again? I understand this is a rather normal inquiry, but here I am, questioning the integrity of my waiter. My lunch was served rather quickly, compared to the untimely wait sessions in between ordering.
The Linguine Alle Vongole Macciato ($18.95) with Littleneck clams and a touch of San Marzano tomatoes presented me with a striking plate of food where not a strand of linguine was out of place. The pasta was well prepared, the sauce was intensely flavorful and the clams offered a natural briny essence. The touch of sweet fleshy San Marzano tomatoes were just right. A small handful of fresh basil sprinkled on top completed the dish. Sometimes there is nothing more satisfying than a traditional plate of food. I felt like I was that girl in Eat.Pray.Love for a minute. I read the book along time ago, but didn't she wander around Italy eating nothing but plate fulls of pasta at Italian Trattorias? I could totally be her! I could run off to Italy and do this for a living. Sigh. I suppose when someone beats you too it, writes a book, and creates an empire around it, including a major motion picture, the idea sounds a bit contrived. But on a happier note, the fact that Il Panino literally transported me to Italy in these moments speaks volumes. Yes, it was first and foremost this incredible pasta and shellfish dish. But it was more than that. Every element including the dark haired and skinned Italian waitstaff, to the intimate outdoor setting, to the cigarette smoke wafting through the air from the two women who sat on the bench below...
I have never been to Italy, but the Amalfi Coast, Rome, as well as the island of Capri are at the top of my Wanderlist. Every single one of the tables was full of foursomes when I arrived; suburbanite families with small children and various couples and friends of all ages. It was about 3:00 at this point, so the lunch rush cleared out completely. Around now, a middle aged man, then a few minutes later an elderly woman arrived to dine alone. See Mr. Host, I'm not the only one who enjoys my own company. And now I really have to laugh, because here is where Hector got me. He offered dessert, sans the delivery of a dessert menu.
Hector: "Bella some sorbetto for you? It's delicious and it comes in a little fruit - a lemon, and orange or a pineapple!!"
Daisy thinks: Lunch was so incredible. For the good of the blog community, I'll do it.
Daisy responds: "Sure, that sounds really good. I'll go with the pineapple"
He sold me. He described the sorbetto in the fruit, and I had to have it!
That was a really good decision by me. A really really good decision.After a lunch in the hot sun, this treat which cost $7.95 cooled me right off. It was creamy, icy, and refreshing. I savored every last spoonful from that pineapple half. I was not able to finish my entire plate of pasta, however, so when Hector cleared my plate along with the bread basket, I requested he add the bread I didn't consume in with my to-go bag. I thought that was a very reasonable request. After all, they were just going to throw it away, right?
Hector: "Oh yes Bella, in fact, I'll throw some fresh bread in their for you!"
BELLA thinks: Wow that is incredibly generous of him. I just wanted my bread that I didn't finish, but if he insists....I first and often embrace the positive qualities in whomever I encounter. I believe Hector was a good guy. He smiled brightly the entire time. He was overly friendly. He missed a few beats. I appreciated his enthusiasm, but at the same time, the charm could have been turned down a notch or two or ten. The pep in his step (i.e. it took way to long for him to clear my plate after it was obvious I was done eating) could have been dialed up a notch.

"CHAO BELLA" echoed throughout the restaurant as I made my grand exit.

If someone doesn't call me Bella ever again, I probably wouldn't mind.

To my bewilderment and disappointment, when I went to heat my pasta up for dinner, there was no bread in my to-go bag.
Trattoria Il Panino has a lot going for them, but they certainly are not the entire package. For a casual dining spot, I thought it was overpriced. The spotty service and the tactics used to make an extra buck were unappreciated. (My water cost $3.95). The intimate outdoor setting and the incredible authentic Mediterranean Italian dishes saved them. I'll take a seat in the sun and plate of pasta and shellfish that good any day of the week.