Showing posts with label Ravioli. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ravioli. Show all posts

Friday, October 21, 2011

New Eats in Kendall Square: Catalyst

The former chef of 28 Degrees and Aujourd'hui is serving up locally sourced modern American cuisine inside a once vacant warehouse turned casually elegant dining space at 300 Technology Square. William Kovel's Catalyst warmly welcomes guests with a two-sided fireplace, a salvaged steel herb garden wall, hand blown glass light fixtures and potted succulents. The shiny industrial meets rustic reclaimed wood space is immaculate, the 30 foot sweeping windows immense and the rest of the contemporary decor is charming.
Megan, Bridget, Elizabeth, Shannon, Emily, Bianca and I were welcomed by the chef; he treated us to a splendid tasting of the menu. Appetizers and entrees were shared family style and desserts were showcased by way of individual sample platters.
I started with a composed cocktail, the Grey Dawn ($10) made with Greylock, Aperol, orange and Peychauds bitters. It wasn't particularly exciting in comparison to some of my past Aperol libations, but it still got the job done. (Read - nicely laced with gin.)As the dishes are prepared with food that celebrates the seasons, the current menu is focused on the summer to fall staples from local purveyors and farms. The Farmers Market Vegetable Salad ($9) was light, fresh and delicious with ever so slightly pickled carrots, onions and beets under peppercress and crispy onions. Crispy Quail ($15) was also excellent, enhanced by a black mission fig gastrique, minuza greens and autumn berry jam. The small gamey bird benefited from a delicate preparation and sweet syrupy pairings. Don't underestimate the Grilled Scallions ($6) served in a deeply flavorful walnut pesto. I imagine this dish on the side menu gets overlooked, (I wouldn't have given it a second glance) but they ended up being a table favorite. Grilling the scallions really seemed to heighten their otherwise mild onion flavor, the rich nutty pesto and soft set walnuts making them all the more swoon worthy.The Chicken Liver Mousse ($10) spoke to me with balanced and unobtrusive flavors. Soft and spreadable with a vessel of grilled country bread, a grainy mustard counterpart, pickled onions and a tiny herb salad, this was a surprisingly likable starter.
A ray of sunshine among a table of leafy greens and earth toned appetizers, the juicy orange yuzus and accompanying syrup brightened up the ensemble in a dish of Seared Spice Crusted Hiramasa ($11). The thinly sliced fish mingled nicely in a zesty cucumber radish salad. I was thrilled when the Jerusalem "Sunchoke" Artichoke Soup ($9) was sent out, since sharing family style doesn't always prompt the chef to go with soup. The Jerusalem artichoke has no relation to Jerusalem and it is not a type of artichoke, but the flowers edible tuber actually resembles the taste of one. This frothy soup with a drizzle of curry oil for contrast was buttery with touches of both sweet and bitterness at once. The homemade pasta courses at Catalyst are simply radiant, imparted with warm melted butter based sauces that give a luxurious edge to the fresh ingredients. A tubular pasta with wide corduroy ridges, Garganelli ($10) proves a fun shape to eat. Ultimate luxury comes in the form of an earthy black truffle butter sauce, and small bites of crispy bacon enhance with a touch of smokiness. Chicken oysters look the part, and are just about the smoothest most tender bite of chicken you never knew existed. Braised escarole greens lend bitterness while roasted carrot pearls give an extra touch of sweetness to the Candy Roaster Georgia Squash Tortellini ($10/$18) swimming in a golden buttery sauce. Flat toothsome pasta is folded up like an envelope to create a rustic tortellini of sorts, finished off with shaved Parmesan cheese. For the hat trick, Mushroom Ravioli ($10/$18) with hen of the woods mushrooms is a double dose of these earthy fall delights, also known as "the king of fall mushrooms." Smooth juicy caps and thick firm stems bathing in a flavorful cream sauce were lovely paired with purses of soft mushroom filling. The balance of textures is what truly allows all that mushroom to harmonize in one dish. Pasta certainly had us filled to the brim. The interlude of a a delicate fish, perfectly prepared to boot, the Lemon Sole ($27) with roasted baby fennel, creamed leeks and lobster (yes there is lobster under that fish!) in a vermouth butter was a solid entree. So was the dish up next featuring Chilled Pork, however, this entree does not appear on the menu.
Encrusted in a flavorful spice rub, the pork was nicely prepared and serving it cold with accompanying shaved apple slices and puree, fresh cilantro and a tart balsamic sauce worked in its favor. An impressive tasting of each dessert in miniature form, the folks at Catalyst truly took a go big or go home approach to this dinner. I was ever so grateful for their generosity and this personalized touch. My favorite by far and away was the Butterscotch and Passionfruit Pudding ($9) with a warm pound cake crouton. Ripe tropical passionfruit and the classic brown sugar and butter confection have come together to create a love child, it is this pudding. No matter how full you are after eating 3 courses of pasta, you must try this dessert. We also sampled the juicy Bosc Pear Tart over house made creme fraiche ice cream, a Housemade Cantaloupe Sorbet ($9) with hazelnut brittle, and a Coconut Cake with creamsicle ice cream and chocolate ganache. Proving you can fit right in by standing out, Catalyst is a fantastic addition to Kendall Square. If you live or work in the area, it's the neighbor you always wish you had. And if you don't, it's absolutely worth a trip!
Catalyst on Urbanspoon

Thursday, October 13, 2011

California Olive Ranch Dinner at Troquet

Last week I was treated to dinner by the warm, passionate folks of California Olive Ranch at Troquet, a cozy French restaurant and wine bar in the Back Bay. An unassuming facade at 140 Boylston Street is home to a polished restaurant with simplistic decor, where hardwood floors and rustic tones inside are complimented by views of a lush leafy green grass expanse of the Boston Common outside. The event was held on the second floor dining space, where an open kitchen meets you at the top of the stairs. I was greeted with a glass of Saivignon Blanc and before we sat for dinner got to know Katie Lipman of Formula PR, Mike Forbes from California Olive Ranch and Tony Polito, author of the cookbook: Fresh - Eating Healthy Never Tasted So Good. I also mingled with fellow bloggers Fiona, Richard, Janelle and Tracey.
Before dinner Mike lead the olive oil tasting (this was my first one, drinking olive oil is a totally new "thing" for me.") He reminded us to just think of it as fruit juice because essentially, it is. The freshness of this olive oil is inherent as a result of the approach the company has taken to growing and harvesting their olives and making and packaging their oil. For example, they cold press their olives within hours of careful harvesting, and they package the product in dark glass. These methods are essential to locking in the purest taste possible; as soon as the fruits come off the vine for as long as the oil remains in the bottle.
The olive oils were seamlessly and yet so poignantly woven throughout each of our three courses, prepared exclusively for our group by chef Scott Hebert. The smooth and versatile Everyday Extra Virgin Olive Oil subtly enhanced our first course of Buratta Ravioli. The presentation was striking; a pastel backdrop of luxurious and foamy braised artichoke and sweet heirloom tomato fondue sets the stage. The ravioli parades around a creamy and nutty bright green artichoke pesto ball, the soft set pasta enveloping springy buratta cheese. I thought this was a brilliant dish.
For the main course, an emulsion of Eggplant and Vandouvian spices under a bed of saffron cous cous proudly displayed the King Salmon which was poached in Millers Blend Extra Virgin Olive Oil.
This olive oils balanced fruity-with-a-peppery kick flavors make it ideal for using in dishes containing strong spices, much like this one. This delicate preparation of a favorite fish will long stand out in my mind, bold orangey pink colors of flaky velvety layers were exquisite, with a topping of barely there olive oil fried crispy toast and a bouquet of crunchy green peppers.
While the fusion of olive oil into the first courses was beautifully accomplished, the dessert course of Valhrona Chocolate Tart was especially impressive in this respect. A firm pastry shell with a decadent chocolate exterior contained Arbequina Extra Virgin Olive Oil mingling with a divine black olive caramel sauce. This type of olive oil is characterized by fresh tropical fruity flavors, the distinct combination with rich chocolate and orange ice cream was quite a sensation. Dining at Troquet was a real treat. I love discovering hidden gems among well traveled streets. While I had heard vaguely of this restaurant, it somehow wasn't on my radar to try. Based on tonight's food and hospitality, I would happily return and would definitely recommend it.
We received two bottles of California Olive Ranch Olive Oils as well as Tony's cookbook as a parting gift. I am eager to start using the award winning olive oil in the kitchen, with the help of a new cookbook that focuses on healthy, 10 minute meals. While I have not blogged about meals or recipes in ages, I do still cook when I can find the time! The aspect of not wanting to take photos every time I've stepped into the kitchen lately combined with my writing focused elsewhere has contributed to why you don't see posts on what I make for dinner much anymore. I have a feeling that once my schedule slows down in the coming weeks and I press checkout on a Peapod order, I'll be back in the kitchen with my camera and a little more enthusiasm!
Troquet on Urbanspoon

Thursday, April 7, 2011

Bergamot: Worth The Trip?

Situated on the Somerville Cambridge Line on the outskirts of Harvard and Inman Squares at 118 Beacon Street, Bergamot is located, relatively speaking, off the beaten path. For me that means a walk from the North End through Beacon Hill to access the outbound red line train, a short subway ride to Harvard Square, and just about another mile walk after that. Truth be told, I don't mind a walk, especially through a charming residential neighborhood. But it still begs the question, is this out-of-my-city-limit-comfort-zone restaurant worth the journey?I review a lot of restaurants and while I attempt to portray in a positive light any and every establishment that makes a valiant effort, I'll let you know when something falls short be it a certain dish, a component of one, or even the service. But I must say, nothing makes me happier than when I don't have to. Bergamot is one of those restaurants that shines in absolutely every aspect of the dining experience.
This past Sunday evening with dining companions Amy, Emily, Megan and Meghan, all of whom have been fortunate to dine here in the past; I was thrilled to partake in what became a sampling of almost the entire menu, or what felt close to it! (Yes, you're in for a long post.) Bergamot serves Progressive American cuisine focusing on the use of locally sourced international ingredients. In other words, they incorporate exotic or unusual foods into familiar and approachable dishes. And be as it may no easy feat, every dish was outstanding and modestly priced to boot.
We started the meal with an Amuse Bouche of golden beet, creamy goat cheese, tangy pickled onion and chive. This bite preceded the appetizer course in splendid fashion.

{Appetizers}
A vibrant slice of smoked salmon, presumably cured with peppercorns and corriander lending a mild spice and an aromatic edge is the Salmon Pastrami ($11). Rolled into a loose cone-like formation and plated over Boston brown bread spread with Devonshire cream, celery jam and honey mustard meringue, a visually stunning and equally as delectable plate earns high marks. The flavorful and firmly tender Grilled Marinated Shrimp ($12) sat over a lightly dressed bed of romaine, red cabbage and frisee dotted with Picholine olives, Satsuma Tangerines, Feta cheese and pistachios. The picholine olives (your typical cocktail olive) sparked intrigue as we learned they were breaded and deep fried. The Satsuma tangerine, reminiscent of a mandarin orange with a particularly delicate flesh, added a tiny burst of sweet citrus to compliment the slightly bitter greens and tangy feta cheese. Showcased in the next appetizer, a farm raised delicacy of Grilled Griggstown Quail ($12) pairs the gamey bird with chickpea manchengo puree, chorizo dust, napa cabbage and piquillo pepper viniagrette. I can't remember when and where I've had quail, but I know I've tasted it in the past. While the counterparts were excellent, this dish truly allowed the quail to stand out so you really got a sense of its more unusual sweet nutty flavors and delicate texture. I saved the best for last, and really, they are all best in my book, but this Berkshire Pork Belly Ravioli ($12) was outstanding. Plump semi circular raviolis enveloping tender pork belly are placed atop a rich cream sauce and generously sprinkled with pistachio and crispy shallots. Central to the plate are some braising greens and flanking the outskirts would be quince, a sticky sweet fruit that was reminiscent of a dried cherry, except more juicy.A bottle of Schloss Mulenhoff Dass 1st Müller-Thurgau a dry sparkling white wine from the Reinheissen region in Germany paired well with the appetizers offering a light body with floral and mineraly notes.
Each of the appetizers, in my opinion, seek to push culinary boundaries and spark intrigue. They leave you with a lasting impression that you'll remember not only up until the entree course, but long past it.

{Chef's compliments}
Bergamot is run by Chef/Co-Owner Keith Pooler formerly of Harvest and Scampo. In addition to paying our table a visit towards the end of the meal, he generously took the time to prepare a scaled down version of the Pan Roasted Rainbow Trout entree for each of us to taste. The fish was beautifully prepared with an extra crispy skin, served alongside savoy cabbage, celeraic and a beet fondue.

{Cocktails}
Because they came so highly recommended, we decided to pair cocktails with our entrees as opposed to more wine! Between the five of us, three went with the Chambery Gimlet ($10) Beefeater London Dry, Rosemary, Lime, Dolin Blanc Vermouth and two of us, myself included chose the Momisette Sour ($10) Genever, Pastis, Orgeat, Classic Egg White Sour. I do love a tart and refreshing Gimlet, however I love the soothing froth of an egg white even more. The anise flavors of the pastis surprises the palate, throwing off the traditional sweet and sour balance of this cocktail in a good way. A very good way.

{Entree}
The Hudson Valley Duck Breast ($28) was my entree of choice. Cooked to a rosy-pink medium rare this duck is tender and robust, with a crispy skin intact. The dark meat is evenly sliced and plated to resemble a work of art, the potato laced jus and green garlic adding abstract visions and layers of intermingling flavors. And clearly, that's not all. This dish has a lot going on and all of it works. Juxtaposing the duck is a mustard and panko crusted braised endive offering a complex bitterness. Layered over the top would be the distinctly moist and earthy Maitake mushrooms. The rest of the entrees earned equally high marks. From the Roasted Lamb Top Sirlion ($29) to the Plantain Gnocchi ($23) and the West Coast Halibut ($28), everyone was pleased with their dishes.

{Dessert}
Hazelnut Baklava is not a regular menu contender, it was actually the dessert special this evening. Baklava takes me back to a distant vacation Greece, but it is not one of my go-to desserts. This one is a sure rival of any I tasted over there, the buttery sweetness and nutty crunch contrasting nicely with the creamy goat cheese.
Bergamot Scented Panna Cotta ($8) - now this is my go-to dessert! Not a Bergamot scented Panna Cotta per say, but a creamy gelatinous panna cotta in general. Accompanied by refreshing grapefruit sorbet over a bed of finely crumbled almonds accented with a forest green tarragon emulsion, I was nothing short of impressed.
The majority favored the Chocolate Chipoltle Cake ($10) for its intense combination of rich chocolate with a deep smokey spice. Oh, the torched marshmallow and sprinkle of peanuts didn't hurt its cause either.
We didn't order the Carrot Cake ($9) but in another generous gesture, chef sent this out with his compliments. I was delighted to sample this dessert after witnessing the presentation of three tiny cakes boasting rum soaked raisins, sandwiching silky cream cheese frosting topped with crispy carrots. It was fantastic. If you are a carrot cake fan, this dessert is for you.
Last but not least, a taste of the Meyer Lemon Beignets ($9) rounded out the dessert experience. I mean, how can you pass up a dessert that offers Tequila ice cream, never mind lemon curd filled bites of goodness dotted with cocoa nibs and espresso glaze? You can't and you shouldn't. After we settled the bill, a plate of Lychee pâte de fruits (small bite of jellied candies) were delivered. This subtle gesture was final a reminder of the thoughtfulness and attention to detail that was exhibited throughout the evening. I was so captivated by it all that I forgot to take a photo of the interior.{Photo compliments of Tim Llewellyn Photography Blog}
The warm natured and informed service embodies refined hospitality to a tee. The wine list is expertly paired yet unconventional. The bartenders fiercely shaken cocktails, as well the chefs innovative appetizers and entrees showcasing classic technique with locally sourced ingredients leave lasting impressions. The desserts stand in a class all their own; sublime and ethereal, I highly recommend you save room. The rustic simplicity meets industrial ceilings meets white linen tablecloths gives the space a homey neighborhood feel while maintaining a classiness all its own. Not only is Bergamot worth the trip, but I would highly encourage one. It would be an absolute shame to miss it.
Bergamot on Urbanspoon