Showing posts with label Sea Bass. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sea Bass. Show all posts

Friday, December 30, 2011

Oxo Tower Restaurant

Situated on London's South Bank rising over the River Thames, the Oxo Tower Restaurant is a luxe dining destination where modern British and Mediterranean cuisine are met with sparkling vistas of the city. The swank 8th floor bar and dining room illuminated in blue and red hues is polished in white linens and ultra modern leather chairs. The contrast of warm lighting blanketing from the shuttered ceilings onto an art deco influenced space is striking, matched by the stunning panorama out the gaping angular floor-to-ceiling, wall-to-wall windows. Most notably St. Pauls Cathedral stands out in the distance and the River Thames reflections twinkle in the foreground.
Tricia had dined here back in 2008 and had a feeling another fantastic experience was store if we returned. She didn't steer us wrong! We were greeted warmly by maitre'd as we stepped in off the elevators, she took our coats and umbrellas and showed us a seat at the bar area.
Instantly charmed by the bold elegance and potted poinsettias, I snapped a few photos and shortly after we were shown our table.The cocktails we had just ordered swiftly followed in our footsteps. True to form, the Aperol based sparkling libation caught my eye. Combining my favorite orange bitters with another orange liqueur called Mandarine Napoleon along with crushed peach, passion fruit and a charge of Prosecco the Riveria (£13.50) appeased but at a lofty price point.
Tricia chose the Black Libertine (£9.95) made with crushed fresh blackberry, Drambuie Liquor and lime juice. Forgoing an appetizer since our late lunch (almost an early dinner) of fish and chips kept our appetites at bay, we jumped right into the mains. Apparently, where fish is concerned, I couldn't get enough this trip. (All the photos had a crazy blue tint, I thought the b&w was easier on the eyes in some instances.)
This gorgeous plate of food would be the Cornish Stone Sea Bass, black risotto, baby squid, sea purslane, lemon oil (£27.50). The presentation instantly wowed, striking an aesthetically pleasing balance that was exciting without overwhelming. Every element was perfectly in its place and the dusting of salts and sea purslane across the white canvas were a thoughtful touch.
Taste wise, the dish far exceeded my expectations, beginning but certainly not ending with the expertly seared piece of Cornish sea bass. The generally mild fish benefited from a simple preparation, where delicately crisp and toasty skin gives way to buttery, lemony, melt-in-your mouth flesh. The other components only further enhanced my adoration. Squeaky clean squid tentacles mingled with strips of nicely sauteed haricot verts over a compact and generous portion of jet-black risotto. I typically come across squid ink in pasta form, but I relished its heightened flavors as it absorbed the tender rice. Building from the briny seafood essence, there's an understated richness, a subtle murky deep sea flavor with a complex mouthfeel that fulfills a high honor of complimenting that beautiful fish.
Tricia ordered the Roast and braised wild duck, goats curd and cinnamon dumpling, coriander caramel (£25.50). Benefiting from a flawless preparation and a unique flavor profile, I really enjoyed the couple bites I had. The coriander caramel seemed risky but somehow worked with the roast bird.
Our interactions with the waitstaff at Oxo Tower were interestingly enough, all over the map. Our first server at the bar was highly engaging and genuine, his bright personable nature was followed up by one-note table service; which was mostly courteous and timely. Towards the end, one server became all too fussy and his presence felt slightly imposing. (Hovering, awkward conversations, unsolicited advice.) And was that just a poor attempt at an upsell or is he genuinely concerned that we only ordered one small dessert to share? (Giving him the benefit of the doubt...) Once we were presented the tiny dessert of Hazelnut parfait, poached pears, lemon verbena (£8) his gesture made a little more sense. Despite the fact that I thought it could have been double the size, it was absolutely lovely. The parfait was ultra creamy, complimented by a crumbly lemon verbena cookie, soft delicately poached pears, a crunchy caramel nougat and plated alongside cute little meringue teardrops. Above all, the menu showcases a wide variety of beautifully prepared dishes, executed precisely and in harmony with exciting ingredients. Detractors claim you pay for the view, can you blame them? Even if you likely are (hello $20 cocktail) the food rises to the occasion. If you're looking to splurge or celebrate a special evening in London, allow Oxo Tower Restaurant to entice you.
Oxo Tower Restaurant, Bar and Brasserie on Urbanspoon

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Eat at Journeyman

To eat at Journeyman is an adventure. To appreciate the experience in an industrial factory turned dining room tucked in an alley in Somerville's Union Square, is to let go of any preconceived notions, to absolve your expectations and go with the flow. The menu is secretive by design and so is the speakeasy-esque location. If you weren't looking for it, you'd miss it, and if you wanted to know what you're ordering for dinner, think again. From a clipboard menu, chose either the omnivore or herbivore tasting, in three ($45), five ($65) or seven ($85) course denominations, with listings that vaguely hint to a main ingredient. We chose the five course omnivore menu, listed as follows: Salad | Potato | Whiting | Lamb | Caramel. The menu options change weekly as a result of the fleeting imaginations of the chefs and what the local markets as well the seasons dictate.
We were celebrating a birthday this evening, not that cocktails wouldn't have been in order anyways! I absolutely loved their spicy, complex version of a dark & stormy; the Stormy Weather ($8) which combined Whaler's Rum Rum, ginger soda, Cardamaro and peppercake bitters. Beverage pairings are offered at $25, $45 and $65, with the courses, respectively. Forgoing that option was almost a necessity given the already serious five course splurge! But the journey, the one you trust these talented academics turned chefs to take you on, proves worthy of such a cost.

The meal began with an amuse bouche of
gougères, a savory French cheese puff made with gruyere that melted into a pillowy, flaky pastry shell. A plate of homemade bread was served next, rustic and grainy, complete with olive oil for dipping and a pat of soft butter served on a rock. Dishes are small, impeccably prepared, and tantalize the senses on multiple levels. My sense of smell was constantly overjoyed, the aromatics straight away drew me in before I even had a chance to marvel at the food itself. After the smell, there was the site, more often than not a fanfare of ingredients displayed thoughtfully and artistically. The first course of salad contained (don't hold your breath!) roasted goat pumpkin with a lemon brown butter, red pepper puree, zucchini ribbons, braised leeks, glazed carrot and green bean, braised hakurei turnip, apple with apple cider, radish, broccoli floret, eggplant-mustard sauce, potato crumble, sweet potato puree, micro greens, fig and brussel sprout! The attention paid to each tiny piece of fruit and vegetable was remarkable, the flavors beautifully defined. I though the potato crumble was particularly inventive and that brussel sprout was probably my favorite bite. The potato course featured a potato gratin, the cube of flaky buttery layers was plated over a forest green herb emulsion, with a fluffy Greek yogurt and sour cream foam, sauteed spinach and finally, sprinkled with brilliant, earthy, hen of the woods mushrooms. This was an elegant interpretation of potatoes, the warm gratin and the cold foam nicely contrasting. Known for their intriguing and obscure wine list, I opted next for a glass of white; Bisson "U Pastine" ($10) 2004; Bianchetta; Liguria, Italy. Bianchetta is a rare grape variety found only in Northwestern Italy and "U Pastine" is local dialect meaning "a very special product". It paired brilliantly with the course up next, which looked quiet and unassuming in comparison, but proved to be anything but. For the whiting, a black sea bass sauteed in butter was plated over a bevy of bivalves including an Island Creek oyster and an Atlantic razor clam. The trio of seafoods were perfectly prepared, offering an exciting mash up of textures. The bacon clam broth also served to excite. A balance of savory, smokey and salty, with a touch of scallion oil, it offered depth without overwhelming the components. Next, a duo of lamb delights. One part roasted, one part braised in a barley-milk, with apricot kernel oil infused bulgar wheat, toasted pistachio puree, poached damson plums and black trumpet mushrooms, every element on the plate was poignant and delicious. I would really love to eat this for dinner again and again, I don't often get this excited about lamb. To transition from savory to sweet, a palate cleanser arrives in the form of a Beefeater Gin + Polar Tonic Gelee. How fun! Cleanse my palate it did, with a hint of cucumber sorbet and fresh mint. The caramel course offered a Greengage plum-caramel sorbet over a super soft caramel cake with peanut/cumin meringue and walnut brittle finished with brush strokes of sherry vinegar custard and dots of huckleberry sauce. It was a splendid ending point.
The length of our meal ran for almost 3 1/2 hours, and from what I have since gathered, this is not uncommon. The span in between courses was a bit longer than ideal, but the outcome embodies a true labor of love. The service all night was on point; plates were efficiently cleared, silverware reset like clockwork, and waters refilled often. The manager, Meg, visits the table accompanying most courses with a cheerful demeanor and a detailed explanation of of the dish.
If an open mind can follow you in, and you have the dollars, not to mention the time, to splurge, I highly encourage you to give it a try. Journeyman proves to be a dynamic and charming dining experience where deliciously whimsical food amazes the palate and feeds the senses.
Journeyman on Urbanspoon