Showing posts with label Fried Oysters. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fried Oysters. Show all posts

Monday, October 24, 2011

O Ya Grand Omakase Chef's Tasting

Preceded by its upstanding reputation and precluded by a hefty price tag; the buzz hasn't let up since it opened in March of 2007, and my desire to visit has only grown stronger all the while. As good fortune combined with a little hard work and dedication would have it, I landed an invitation to dinner at O Ya as a result of my involvement with the soon-to-launch website Tasted Menu. I made my way down to the Leather District on a misty Thursday evening; by 6:30 pm it was nearly dark as I ducked off Atlantic Avenue onto East Street, where the restaurant resides in an obscure brick building marked by small glowing lanterns and a single hanging sign. The discreet entrance is just around the corner, where a commanding door, tall and narrow constructed of chic wood leads you into an intimate dining space heralded by an L shaped sushi bar. The decor inside this reclaimed firehouse is minimal and sleek, the vibe serene and comfortable. Joined by fellow beta testers and friends, Rachel and Bianca, along with Tasted Menu's CEO, Alex we embarked on an epic twenty-two course culinary voyage; The Omakase Grand Tasting Menu ($275/per person). Omakase is a Japanese phrase that means "I'll leave it to you", and at O Ya, it is a matchless expression of chef Tim Cushman's talents. Each dish in his repertoire stands as a work of art; creative, innovative, and poignantly displayed. The taste embraces qualities that stretch far beyond the realm of adjectives that do them justice; simply stated, this is some extraordinary Japanese cuisine. In a bamboo steamer filled with ice are Kumamoto Oysters to begin the meal. The beloved bivalve is sweet and ridiculously plump, adorned with juicy watermelon pearls and a refreshing cucumber mignonette. Next comes Hamachi, a type of Yellowtail fish characterized by its light pink, oily flesh. Rich, smooth, buttery and topped with a lightly torched spicy pepper banana mousse, it gives off a fantastic heat that lingers on the palate. Elegantly draped over a block of rice, Wild King Salmon glistens on the plate and the taste buds, with a spicy lemongrass curry sauce and a chiffonade of thai basil. Maine Sea Urchin & White Sturgeon Caviar proves a duo of oceanic delicacies are even better than one. Sharp with a touch of sweetness, the bright yellow roe is ultra creamy, just a hint firmer than pudding. The caviar is smooth and glossy, imparting a rich nutty flavor. Fishy meets elegant in a composed bite of Kamasu Wild Line Caught Japanese Barracuda balancing a baby tomato and shiso drizzled with yuzu truffle. Barracuda is a unique fish that possesses a firm texture and strong flavor. And so it begins. I've finished a glass of Dassai Junmai Daiginjo Nigori ($14) and now we've moved onto a bottle of the same ($40) for the table. The courses proceed in spectacular fashion with the Fried Kumamoto Oyster out next. The crisp oyster is still distinctively briny, dressed in a zesty citrus yuzu kosho aioli with a crown of squid ink bubbles, the black glistening foam resembles an imaginative outer space crater. Altogether this lightly chewy and crispy, bubbly and buttery bite is an astonishing sensation. A fatty Bluefin Toro Tartare is sophisticated with sea salt and garlic, overlapped with thinly shaved alba white truffles. This individually portioned dish was a thoughtful change of pace from the highly skilled nigiri preparations that preceded, and those that continue to follow still with inventive flavors highlighting impeccably fresh pieces of fish. A second bite of Salmon, even more enlightening than the first is coated in a Vietnamese dashi caramel soy sauce and topped with a spicy rau ram (Vietnamese cilantro/coriander) salsa. Then comes the coveted Bluefin Tuna. Its ruby red dense fatty flesh is brushed in a foie gras ponzu capped with caramelized onion and crunchy gobo, a Japanese root which lends a distinct nuttiness. As we near the halfway point, bracing for the move to more subtle flavors, a traditional palate cleanser of Alaskan King Crab Sunomono with pickled wakame, daikon and cucumber is served. Following is an intricate bite of Aji Tataki - the mackerel is finely chopped and served with daikon pickle, myoga and scallion ginger powder. The herbaceous gingery notes are pronounced as the powder playfully melts into your tongue. Next we recieve Smoked Unagi, the eel appealing for its typically sweet, melty qualities takes on another level of complexity having been smoked and served with soy maple and pickled ginger. This was an incredible bite of a favorite sushi delicacy that I never knew could be so dynamic. Speaking of dynamic, out comes another grand gesture, Foie Gras Powder served on an elongated wooden spoon with smoked miso and preserved California yuzu. The complexities amaze, the texture is at once fluffy before it melts into a lightweight paste, finishing with a crunch of tempura. The flavors are unexpectedly powerful and pronounced. A beautiful Bluefin Otoro comes sashimi style, with wasabi oil and heaps of green onion. This tuna belly is flawless, the toppings lending a balanced heat. Two small bites each of Arctic Char are served with cured yuzu, cilantro and smoked sesame brittle over a thick brushstroke of an inventive cumin aioli. A Hokkaido Sea Scallop is of impeccable sashimi grade quality brimming with freshness, bathing in a delicious sake sea urchin jus, topped with burgundy truffles. I actually preferred to eat the truffles separate from the scallops, I felt their powerful depth masked the beauty of the exquisite sea creature. Relishing every intricate bite with a focused concentration, we're three quarters of the way finished and still somehow the best is yet to come. The Shiso Tempura with Grilled Lobster presents a tempura dredged crispy fried shiso leaf cradling succulent lobster and charred tomato with a dollop of ponzu aioli. Like an intricate version of the best potato chip you've ever tasted, this bite of food plays magic tricks on your palate. Gold leafs shimmer atop a dazzling "Faberge" Onsen Egg that has been delicately slow poached revealing a creamy runny yolk greeted by white sturgeon caviar, green onion and a sweet soy dashi sauce. A dish of Grilled Chanterelle & Shitake Mushrooms are pleasantly aromatic and unconventionally exquisite. Thinly sliced caps are tender and fleshy, almost meaty, stems are slightly firmer, layered with rosemary garlic oil, sesame froth and housemade soy. On its own a $61 dish, the Seared Petit Strip Loin of Wagyu is astonishingly good. A flawless preparation showcases silky smooth slices of beef, subtly sweet with a savory edge, over a bed of potato confit accented with sea salt and white truffle oil. As we near the end, Hillman Fresh Chevre comes speckled with vanilla nori over a pool of Asian pear. The tart and creamy goat cheese is balanced by the juicy Asian pear, while soothing vanilla nori adds a contrast with a dash of crunch. To wash down this second to last bite, a Mito No Kairakuen Premuim Plum Liquer, aged 5 years is a welcome refreshment. We cross the finish line with an indulgent Foie Gras Nigiri coated in balsamic chocolate kabayaki and claudio corallo rasin cocoa pulp. A thick wedge of lightly seared foie gras is swept up in sweet chocolate tempered by a tang of balsamic and hint of raisin. A glorious finale, especially as it's teemed with a Hanahato Junmai Kijoshu Sake, aged 8 years, from Hiroshima. The final bites, and the thoughtfully paired sips of thick, sweet sake are exquisite.
It's 11:00 pm and we've closed down the restaurant. I feel blissfully enlightened and incredibly lucky. To celebrate a very special occasion or should you find yourself inheriting a small fortune, allow this modern Japanese cuisine to entice you. O Ya is all at once extravagant, refined and elaborate; wonderfully imaginative and genuinely outstanding.
O Ya on Urbanspoon

Monday, August 8, 2011

Basho Japanese Brasserie

Opened in April 2010 by the same owner of Douzo in the Back Bay, Basho the Japanese term for "a place where things happen" is a welcome addition to the Fenway neighborhood. Indeed things are happening, all of them good, at this sleek ultra modern establishment that embodies its label as a Brassiere, minus the French part of course. The vibe is relaxed while the setting leans towards upscale, the service is informal and friendly while remaining exceptionally efficient. My sister and I have fairly regular sushi nights and Basho was one of our favorites to date! It was sufficiently busy on a Tuesday evening, but not busy enough where we had to wait for a table without a reservation. We were greeted immediately and swiftly ushered into the large dining room where uniform rows of polished black tables are separated by potted bamboo. A sushi bar running the length of the dining room commands attention; backed by ultra thin light fixtures illuminating the white wall. The dining room is separated from the entrance / bar area by geometrical shaped muted lime green booths, all of which were full upon arrival. Leah and I immediately took note of the sake samplers being enjoyed at the table to our left - sparkling like they were sent down from the heavens above, each mini glass with its own personal garnish. Serious drink envy set in. We were bummed when our waiter informed us it was part of a special Ru La La dinner deal and alas, no sake sampling for us. I made a shameless plug for the sampler via my $40 Groupon, (no dice) before we settled on carafes of warm sake. A Sho Chiku Bai ($8) your classic Junmai satiated our sake appetites. Speaking of classics, we started with an order of Edamame ($4.75) precisely flavored with sea salt and lime before diving into an order of the Fried Oyster Special ($7.95).A plump oyster gets a hearty coating of panko bread crumbs and is fried until golden brown. The contrast of the warm slippery bivalve to the crispy panko exterior proves this appetizer is truly something special. And then, there was this. My expectations were fairly high in the sushi department and Basho offered some impressively unique maki that rose to the occasion.
Whoever is to be credited with the invention of the Celtic Maki Burrito ($16.95) I'd like to personally thank. Named for its green wrapper, this piece de resistance consists of a whole spicy tuna roll wrapped in soy paper and deep fried in a light tempura batter. An array of sauces including barbecued unagi, basil oil and jalapeƱo aioli accompany this bliss inducing bite. Make that five bites. It is a (mini) burrito after all. I'd go back solely on its behalf. Other phenoms include the Amaebi Mango Roll ($13.95) wrapping mango, cucumber and grilled pineapple with shrimp and a sweet mango sauce. This roll embraced the juicy summer fruit, that sunny side up colored mango sauce glistened. It would have benefited from a more precise construction, certain maki towards the center were falling apart in our chopsticks before making it in to the essential soy sauce/ginger/wasabi dip. Fortunately, the Scallop Kiwi Roll ($13.95) stayed in place start to finish. Thinly sliced scallop, juicy kiwi and black tobiko topped a roll of minced seafood, a seaweed salad and tempura crumbs. We decided not to stop at green burritos and fruit laced maki. For dessert we ordered the Green Tea Tempura Ice Cream ($5.00) What's better than an ice cream sundae? Why, that would be a deep fried ice cream sundae. Washed down with a glass of Choya Umeshu Plum ($7) dessert wine, immense satisfaction set in. Another draw to this Fenway hot spot located at 1338 Boylston Street is the fact that they validate parking ($4 under three hours) at the garage around the corner. This is especially helpful if you decide to dine during a Red Sox game. With robust menu options and sushi worthy of praise, I would happily return to sample more of Basho's offerings. And to order the Celtic Maki Burrito again - definitely that.
Basho Japanese Brasserie on Urbanspoon

Where should we go for sushi next?