Barcelona Cuisine | Comerç 24

One of the most memorable meals during our trip to Spain was at Barcelona's eloquent and cosmopolitan Comerç 24. Distinguished by a coveted Michelin Star, Chef/owner Charles Abellan's cuisine is described as having roots but knowing no borders. He began his career under the prestigious Ferran Adria of El Bulli fame, where he trained and spent seven subsequent years on the team before managing successive ventures of Adria's. Eventually returning to downtown Barcelona to open restaurants of his own, Abellan is renowned as one of the most innovative chefs of nouvelle Catalan cuisine.His flagship eatery features inspired luxury tapas created using avant-garde techniques. The interior spaces is sophisticated and refined, with a soothing ambiance of neutral gray tones highlighted by warm red and yellow decor. While I had Comerç 24 on my radar prior to departing for Spain, we didn't have set plans to visit. Most reviews would advise against showing up without a reservation, but early on a weekday night, we decided to take our chances.

We ventured on foot to the hip neighborhood of El Born, past the majestic Arc de Triomf located in the Parc de la Cituadella. We were the among the first to arrive around 8:30 pm and were seated at the bar, adjacent to the brightly lit open kitchen; its yellow walls glowing from the inside out. The vacant seats on either side were soon filled by couples on vacation who clearly had the same idea as us, right down to their DSLRs photographing the the meal. Conversation among us ensued, wouldn't you know I felt right at home.

Besides the company adding to the convivial experience, the entire staff was superb throughout. Professional and composed service met with warm and welcoming hospitality, they simply did not miss a beat. After settling in with an aperitif, a glass of Cava for her, "White Label" on the rocks for him, a server presented three artisianal loaves of bread arranged on a large cutting board, and kindly instructed us to choose one.

Sliced behind the scenes and served accompanied by a wooden crate of four distinct and delicious Spanish olive oils, this well executed gesture began the meal on an impressive note.

We decided to order our tapas a la carte, as opposed to the set 7 course tasting menu, which was 84€. Our meal more than likely ended up the same price in the end, however, there were certain items that spoke to us, and we ordered with our instincts. The kitchen took care to split certain dishes into individual portions as they saw fit.

The meal commenced with a trio of amuse bouche style tapas. We sipped a Cold Cauliflower Soup with smoked tea and nori, popped two bites each of Pickled Cauliflower Florets with ginger and rice vinegar and savored the Phyllo Cigars filled with Parmesan mousse accented with essence of lemon and basil. The presentation of the starter tapas on natural stones was utterly charming, as were the slate slabs on the courses that followed. The Pizza 24 was yet another prelude, juicy tomatoes and sweet strawberries met over creamy buratta on a thin crispy flatbread topped with heaps of fresh basil.

Our a la carte adventure began with the Tuna Sashimi Pizza. Thick cubes of the deep ruby red fish in a wasabi vinaigrette are layered domino style over a crispy wafer thin crust lined with strips of seaweed. An innovative presentation lends itself to well composed bites, while the preparation allows these flawless pieces of tuna shine, as sashimi this gorgeous absolutely should. A Japanese influence was prevalent in quite a few of the plates we ordered, this fusion proved a welcome concept.I was really looking forward to the Razor Clam Yakisoba, and this radiant bowl of "noodles" did not disappoint. Toothsome strands of the mollusks typically favored in Spanish cuisine are lightly dressed in an Asian inspired sauce; accompanied by intensely bright and juicy mandarin oranges.

The soft citrus fruit has been prepared a la plancha, so the wedges became slightly caramelized. A black firecracker of julienned nori strips give this delectable tapas an element of flair.

Another impeccable sashimi style offering, the Monkfish has been carefully sliced to a pristine thinness, the translucent white flesh is in gorgeous contrast with the black garlic ink and festive confetti of black sesame. I grew infinitely intrigued by the black garlic with each bite. It adds a wonderful umami flavored complexity, and is especially unique in this sticky paste form. Initially mild, the flavors build to a rich savory finish, flattering the subtle sweetness of the Monkfish. This dish was truly something brilliant.

The Braised Oxtail is in stark contrast to the former dishes, this tender cut of meat is warm, juicy and comforting. The heightened meaty flavor, rich and mouth filling was complimented with a clever preparation of remarkably soft and light turnips. A paper thin radish square a top the beef adds a slight hint of tanginess.

With our meal we enjoyed a bottle of Juan Bautista Campo de Borja Yonna, a tempranillo grenacha blend from the region of Aragon. This was a rustic Spanish wine boasting tart cherry on the nose, with pronounced oak flavors and a soft finish.

When it came to dessert, we opted this time for the tasting menu (18€)! A gastronomic parade of magical sweet treats began with a Lemon Ice Tea.

Tart lemon ice cream is scooped over a buttery sable cookie bathing with pineapple chunks in sweet pineapple juices.

The Cherry Tonka presented a smooth scoop of cherry ice cream and a hollowed cherry halve with a golden gelee cube that I can't quite place, and a tonka bean custard. Tonka is reminiscent of vanilla, with a slightly more exotic allure. (Apparently quite the controversial legume, its use in food is banned in the United States by the FDA. Google it!)

In a charming glass jar came Recuit Napolita with strawberry, basil and a foamy custard that was sweet and creamy in one bite, tangy and reminiscent of greek yogurt in the next. While strawberry and basil are a not an unusual ingredient pairing, this jar of whimsy managed to offer surprises with every bite.

The Caramel Apple Saffron was decidedly fascinating. Over a bed of equally soft yet crispy caramel chocolate crumbles sat an inventive apple saffron ice cream, drizzled in a luscious caramel sauce. This was my favorite of the dessert tapas so far, until the grand finale Conguitos ç24 swept in and stole my affections. Over a hazelnut brownie draped with more caramel sat these mystical chocolate bombshells dusted generously in cocoa powder. What would appear to be a dense truffle was in fact a thin shell containing ice cream. It was a nutty praline cream that was all too astonishingly cold and firm. This bite, was bliss. And just when we thought it was over, a slate of Petit Fours showed up. These playful gems from left to right are: gold fondant chocolate bars, green tea white chocolate slivers, chocolate covered pine nuts and vanilla panna cotta oreos.A splurge worthy destination, should you choose to dine at Comerç 24, a procession of creative, luxurious, globally inspired tapas awaits!

O Ya Grand Omakase Chef's Tasting

Preceded by its upstanding reputation and precluded by a hefty price tag; the buzz hasn't let up since it opened in March of 2007, and my desire to visit has only grown stronger all the while. As good fortune combined with a little hard work and dedication would have it, I landed an invitation to dinner at O Ya as a result of my involvement with the soon-to-launch website Tasted Menu. I made my way down to the Leather District on a misty Thursday evening; by 6:30 pm it was nearly dark as I ducked off Atlantic Avenue onto East Street, where the restaurant resides in an obscure brick building marked by small glowing lanterns and a single hanging sign. The discreet entrance is just around the corner, where a commanding door, tall and narrow constructed of chic wood leads you into an intimate dining space heralded by an L shaped sushi bar. The decor inside this reclaimed firehouse is minimal and sleek, the vibe serene and comfortable. Joined by fellow beta testers and friends, Rachel and Bianca, along with Tasted Menu's CEO, Alex we embarked on an epic twenty-two course culinary voyage; The Omakase Grand Tasting Menu ($275/per person). Omakase is a Japanese phrase that means "I'll leave it to you", and at O Ya, it is a matchless expression of chef Tim Cushman's talents. Each dish in his repertoire stands as a work of art; creative, innovative, and poignantly displayed. The taste embraces qualities that stretch far beyond the realm of adjectives that do them justice; simply stated, this is some extraordinary Japanese cuisine. In a bamboo steamer filled with ice are Kumamoto Oysters to begin the meal. The beloved bivalve is sweet and ridiculously plump, adorned with juicy watermelon pearls and a refreshing cucumber mignonette. Next comes Hamachi, a type of Yellowtail fish characterized by its light pink, oily flesh. Rich, smooth, buttery and topped with a lightly torched spicy pepper banana mousse, it gives off a fantastic heat that lingers on the palate. Elegantly draped over a block of rice, Wild King Salmon glistens on the plate and the taste buds, with a spicy lemongrass curry sauce and a chiffonade of thai basil. Maine Sea Urchin & White Sturgeon Caviar proves a duo of oceanic delicacies are even better than one. Sharp with a touch of sweetness, the bright yellow roe is ultra creamy, just a hint firmer than pudding. The caviar is smooth and glossy, imparting a rich nutty flavor. Fishy meets elegant in a composed bite of Kamasu Wild Line Caught Japanese Barracuda balancing a baby tomato and shiso drizzled with yuzu truffle. Barracuda is a unique fish that possesses a firm texture and strong flavor. And so it begins. I've finished a glass of Dassai Junmai Daiginjo Nigori ($14) and now we've moved onto a bottle of the same ($40) for the table. The courses proceed in spectacular fashion with the Fried Kumamoto Oyster out next. The crisp oyster is still distinctively briny, dressed in a zesty citrus yuzu kosho aioli with a crown of squid ink bubbles, the black glistening foam resembles an imaginative outer space crater. Altogether this lightly chewy and crispy, bubbly and buttery bite is an astonishing sensation. A fatty Bluefin Toro Tartare is sophisticated with sea salt and garlic, overlapped with thinly shaved alba white truffles. This individually portioned dish was a thoughtful change of pace from the highly skilled nigiri preparations that preceded, and those that continue to follow still with inventive flavors highlighting impeccably fresh pieces of fish. A second bite of Salmon, even more enlightening than the first is coated in a Vietnamese dashi caramel soy sauce and topped with a spicy rau ram (Vietnamese cilantro/coriander) salsa. Then comes the coveted Bluefin Tuna. Its ruby red dense fatty flesh is brushed in a foie gras ponzu capped with caramelized onion and crunchy gobo, a Japanese root which lends a distinct nuttiness. As we near the halfway point, bracing for the move to more subtle flavors, a traditional palate cleanser of Alaskan King Crab Sunomono with pickled wakame, daikon and cucumber is served. Following is an intricate bite of Aji Tataki - the mackerel is finely chopped and served with daikon pickle, myoga and scallion ginger powder. The herbaceous gingery notes are pronounced as the powder playfully melts into your tongue. Next we recieve Smoked Unagi, the eel appealing for its typically sweet, melty qualities takes on another level of complexity having been smoked and served with soy maple and pickled ginger. This was an incredible bite of a favorite sushi delicacy that I never knew could be so dynamic. Speaking of dynamic, out comes another grand gesture, Foie Gras Powder served on an elongated wooden spoon with smoked miso and preserved California yuzu. The complexities amaze, the texture is at once fluffy before it melts into a lightweight paste, finishing with a crunch of tempura. The flavors are unexpectedly powerful and pronounced. A beautiful Bluefin Otoro comes sashimi style, with wasabi oil and heaps of green onion. This tuna belly is flawless, the toppings lending a balanced heat. Two small bites each of Arctic Char are served with cured yuzu, cilantro and smoked sesame brittle over a thick brushstroke of an inventive cumin aioli. A Hokkaido Sea Scallop is of impeccable sashimi grade quality brimming with freshness, bathing in a delicious sake sea urchin jus, topped with burgundy truffles. I actually preferred to eat the truffles separate from the scallops, I felt their powerful depth masked the beauty of the exquisite sea creature. Relishing every intricate bite with a focused concentration, we're three quarters of the way finished and still somehow the best is yet to come. The Shiso Tempura with Grilled Lobster presents a tempura dredged crispy fried shiso leaf cradling succulent lobster and charred tomato with a dollop of ponzu aioli. Like an intricate version of the best potato chip you've ever tasted, this bite of food plays magic tricks on your palate. Gold leafs shimmer atop a dazzling "Faberge" Onsen Egg that has been delicately slow poached revealing a creamy runny yolk greeted by white sturgeon caviar, green onion and a sweet soy dashi sauce. A dish of Grilled Chanterelle & Shitake Mushrooms are pleasantly aromatic and unconventionally exquisite. Thinly sliced caps are tender and fleshy, almost meaty, stems are slightly firmer, layered with rosemary garlic oil, sesame froth and housemade soy. On its own a $61 dish, the Seared Petit Strip Loin of Wagyu is astonishingly good. A flawless preparation showcases silky smooth slices of beef, subtly sweet with a savory edge, over a bed of potato confit accented with sea salt and white truffle oil. As we near the end, Hillman Fresh Chevre comes speckled with vanilla nori over a pool of Asian pear. The tart and creamy goat cheese is balanced by the juicy Asian pear, while soothing vanilla nori adds a contrast with a dash of crunch. To wash down this second to last bite, a Mito No Kairakuen Premuim Plum Liquer, aged 5 years is a welcome refreshment. We cross the finish line with an indulgent Foie Gras Nigiri coated in balsamic chocolate kabayaki and claudio corallo rasin cocoa pulp. A thick wedge of lightly seared foie gras is swept up in sweet chocolate tempered by a tang of balsamic and hint of raisin. A glorious finale, especially as it's teemed with a Hanahato Junmai Kijoshu Sake, aged 8 years, from Hiroshima. The final bites, and the thoughtfully paired sips of thick, sweet sake are exquisite.

It's 11:00 pm and we've closed down the restaurant. I feel blissfully enlightened and incredibly lucky. To celebrate a very special occasion or should you find yourself inheriting a small fortune, allow this modern Japanese cuisine to entice you. O Ya is all at once extravagant, refined and elaborate; wonderfully imaginative and genuinely outstanding.