Showing posts with label Salmon. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Salmon. Show all posts

Monday, October 24, 2011

O Ya Grand Omakase Chef's Tasting

Preceded by its upstanding reputation and precluded by a hefty price tag; the buzz hasn't let up since it opened in March of 2007, and my desire to visit has only grown stronger all the while. As good fortune combined with a little hard work and dedication would have it, I landed an invitation to dinner at O Ya as a result of my involvement with the soon-to-launch website Tasted Menu. I made my way down to the Leather District on a misty Thursday evening; by 6:30 pm it was nearly dark as I ducked off Atlantic Avenue onto East Street, where the restaurant resides in an obscure brick building marked by small glowing lanterns and a single hanging sign. The discreet entrance is just around the corner, where a commanding door, tall and narrow constructed of chic wood leads you into an intimate dining space heralded by an L shaped sushi bar. The decor inside this reclaimed firehouse is minimal and sleek, the vibe serene and comfortable. Joined by fellow beta testers and friends, Rachel and Bianca, along with Tasted Menu's CEO, Alex we embarked on an epic twenty-two course culinary voyage; The Omakase Grand Tasting Menu ($275/per person). Omakase is a Japanese phrase that means "I'll leave it to you", and at O Ya, it is a matchless expression of chef Tim Cushman's talents. Each dish in his repertoire stands as a work of art; creative, innovative, and poignantly displayed. The taste embraces qualities that stretch far beyond the realm of adjectives that do them justice; simply stated, this is some extraordinary Japanese cuisine. In a bamboo steamer filled with ice are Kumamoto Oysters to begin the meal. The beloved bivalve is sweet and ridiculously plump, adorned with juicy watermelon pearls and a refreshing cucumber mignonette. Next comes Hamachi, a type of Yellowtail fish characterized by its light pink, oily flesh. Rich, smooth, buttery and topped with a lightly torched spicy pepper banana mousse, it gives off a fantastic heat that lingers on the palate. Elegantly draped over a block of rice, Wild King Salmon glistens on the plate and the taste buds, with a spicy lemongrass curry sauce and a chiffonade of thai basil. Maine Sea Urchin & White Sturgeon Caviar proves a duo of oceanic delicacies are even better than one. Sharp with a touch of sweetness, the bright yellow roe is ultra creamy, just a hint firmer than pudding. The caviar is smooth and glossy, imparting a rich nutty flavor. Fishy meets elegant in a composed bite of Kamasu Wild Line Caught Japanese Barracuda balancing a baby tomato and shiso drizzled with yuzu truffle. Barracuda is a unique fish that possesses a firm texture and strong flavor. And so it begins. I've finished a glass of Dassai Junmai Daiginjo Nigori ($14) and now we've moved onto a bottle of the same ($40) for the table. The courses proceed in spectacular fashion with the Fried Kumamoto Oyster out next. The crisp oyster is still distinctively briny, dressed in a zesty citrus yuzu kosho aioli with a crown of squid ink bubbles, the black glistening foam resembles an imaginative outer space crater. Altogether this lightly chewy and crispy, bubbly and buttery bite is an astonishing sensation. A fatty Bluefin Toro Tartare is sophisticated with sea salt and garlic, overlapped with thinly shaved alba white truffles. This individually portioned dish was a thoughtful change of pace from the highly skilled nigiri preparations that preceded, and those that continue to follow still with inventive flavors highlighting impeccably fresh pieces of fish. A second bite of Salmon, even more enlightening than the first is coated in a Vietnamese dashi caramel soy sauce and topped with a spicy rau ram (Vietnamese cilantro/coriander) salsa. Then comes the coveted Bluefin Tuna. Its ruby red dense fatty flesh is brushed in a foie gras ponzu capped with caramelized onion and crunchy gobo, a Japanese root which lends a distinct nuttiness. As we near the halfway point, bracing for the move to more subtle flavors, a traditional palate cleanser of Alaskan King Crab Sunomono with pickled wakame, daikon and cucumber is served. Following is an intricate bite of Aji Tataki - the mackerel is finely chopped and served with daikon pickle, myoga and scallion ginger powder. The herbaceous gingery notes are pronounced as the powder playfully melts into your tongue. Next we recieve Smoked Unagi, the eel appealing for its typically sweet, melty qualities takes on another level of complexity having been smoked and served with soy maple and pickled ginger. This was an incredible bite of a favorite sushi delicacy that I never knew could be so dynamic. Speaking of dynamic, out comes another grand gesture, Foie Gras Powder served on an elongated wooden spoon with smoked miso and preserved California yuzu. The complexities amaze, the texture is at once fluffy before it melts into a lightweight paste, finishing with a crunch of tempura. The flavors are unexpectedly powerful and pronounced. A beautiful Bluefin Otoro comes sashimi style, with wasabi oil and heaps of green onion. This tuna belly is flawless, the toppings lending a balanced heat. Two small bites each of Arctic Char are served with cured yuzu, cilantro and smoked sesame brittle over a thick brushstroke of an inventive cumin aioli. A Hokkaido Sea Scallop is of impeccable sashimi grade quality brimming with freshness, bathing in a delicious sake sea urchin jus, topped with burgundy truffles. I actually preferred to eat the truffles separate from the scallops, I felt their powerful depth masked the beauty of the exquisite sea creature. Relishing every intricate bite with a focused concentration, we're three quarters of the way finished and still somehow the best is yet to come. The Shiso Tempura with Grilled Lobster presents a tempura dredged crispy fried shiso leaf cradling succulent lobster and charred tomato with a dollop of ponzu aioli. Like an intricate version of the best potato chip you've ever tasted, this bite of food plays magic tricks on your palate. Gold leafs shimmer atop a dazzling "Faberge" Onsen Egg that has been delicately slow poached revealing a creamy runny yolk greeted by white sturgeon caviar, green onion and a sweet soy dashi sauce. A dish of Grilled Chanterelle & Shitake Mushrooms are pleasantly aromatic and unconventionally exquisite. Thinly sliced caps are tender and fleshy, almost meaty, stems are slightly firmer, layered with rosemary garlic oil, sesame froth and housemade soy. On its own a $61 dish, the Seared Petit Strip Loin of Wagyu is astonishingly good. A flawless preparation showcases silky smooth slices of beef, subtly sweet with a savory edge, over a bed of potato confit accented with sea salt and white truffle oil. As we near the end, Hillman Fresh Chevre comes speckled with vanilla nori over a pool of Asian pear. The tart and creamy goat cheese is balanced by the juicy Asian pear, while soothing vanilla nori adds a contrast with a dash of crunch. To wash down this second to last bite, a Mito No Kairakuen Premuim Plum Liquer, aged 5 years is a welcome refreshment. We cross the finish line with an indulgent Foie Gras Nigiri coated in balsamic chocolate kabayaki and claudio corallo rasin cocoa pulp. A thick wedge of lightly seared foie gras is swept up in sweet chocolate tempered by a tang of balsamic and hint of raisin. A glorious finale, especially as it's teemed with a Hanahato Junmai Kijoshu Sake, aged 8 years, from Hiroshima. The final bites, and the thoughtfully paired sips of thick, sweet sake are exquisite.
It's 11:00 pm and we've closed down the restaurant. I feel blissfully enlightened and incredibly lucky. To celebrate a very special occasion or should you find yourself inheriting a small fortune, allow this modern Japanese cuisine to entice you. O Ya is all at once extravagant, refined and elaborate; wonderfully imaginative and genuinely outstanding.
O Ya on Urbanspoon

Thursday, October 13, 2011

California Olive Ranch Dinner at Troquet

Last week I was treated to dinner by the warm, passionate folks of California Olive Ranch at Troquet, a cozy French restaurant and wine bar in the Back Bay. An unassuming facade at 140 Boylston Street is home to a polished restaurant with simplistic decor, where hardwood floors and rustic tones inside are complimented by views of a lush leafy green grass expanse of the Boston Common outside. The event was held on the second floor dining space, where an open kitchen meets you at the top of the stairs. I was greeted with a glass of Saivignon Blanc and before we sat for dinner got to know Katie Lipman of Formula PR, Mike Forbes from California Olive Ranch and Tony Polito, author of the cookbook: Fresh - Eating Healthy Never Tasted So Good. I also mingled with fellow bloggers Fiona, Richard, Janelle and Tracey.
Before dinner Mike lead the olive oil tasting (this was my first one, drinking olive oil is a totally new "thing" for me.") He reminded us to just think of it as fruit juice because essentially, it is. The freshness of this olive oil is inherent as a result of the approach the company has taken to growing and harvesting their olives and making and packaging their oil. For example, they cold press their olives within hours of careful harvesting, and they package the product in dark glass. These methods are essential to locking in the purest taste possible; as soon as the fruits come off the vine for as long as the oil remains in the bottle.
The olive oils were seamlessly and yet so poignantly woven throughout each of our three courses, prepared exclusively for our group by chef Scott Hebert. The smooth and versatile Everyday Extra Virgin Olive Oil subtly enhanced our first course of Buratta Ravioli. The presentation was striking; a pastel backdrop of luxurious and foamy braised artichoke and sweet heirloom tomato fondue sets the stage. The ravioli parades around a creamy and nutty bright green artichoke pesto ball, the soft set pasta enveloping springy buratta cheese. I thought this was a brilliant dish.
For the main course, an emulsion of Eggplant and Vandouvian spices under a bed of saffron cous cous proudly displayed the King Salmon which was poached in Millers Blend Extra Virgin Olive Oil.
This olive oils balanced fruity-with-a-peppery kick flavors make it ideal for using in dishes containing strong spices, much like this one. This delicate preparation of a favorite fish will long stand out in my mind, bold orangey pink colors of flaky velvety layers were exquisite, with a topping of barely there olive oil fried crispy toast and a bouquet of crunchy green peppers.
While the fusion of olive oil into the first courses was beautifully accomplished, the dessert course of Valhrona Chocolate Tart was especially impressive in this respect. A firm pastry shell with a decadent chocolate exterior contained Arbequina Extra Virgin Olive Oil mingling with a divine black olive caramel sauce. This type of olive oil is characterized by fresh tropical fruity flavors, the distinct combination with rich chocolate and orange ice cream was quite a sensation. Dining at Troquet was a real treat. I love discovering hidden gems among well traveled streets. While I had heard vaguely of this restaurant, it somehow wasn't on my radar to try. Based on tonight's food and hospitality, I would happily return and would definitely recommend it.
We received two bottles of California Olive Ranch Olive Oils as well as Tony's cookbook as a parting gift. I am eager to start using the award winning olive oil in the kitchen, with the help of a new cookbook that focuses on healthy, 10 minute meals. While I have not blogged about meals or recipes in ages, I do still cook when I can find the time! The aspect of not wanting to take photos every time I've stepped into the kitchen lately combined with my writing focused elsewhere has contributed to why you don't see posts on what I make for dinner much anymore. I have a feeling that once my schedule slows down in the coming weeks and I press checkout on a Peapod order, I'll be back in the kitchen with my camera and a little more enthusiasm!
Troquet on Urbanspoon