Showing posts with label Octopus. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Octopus. Show all posts

Thursday, February 24, 2011

South of The Border Small Plates at Tico

Introducing Tico, Back Bays newest venue serving Latin American inspired food from renowned Boston chef, Michael Schlow. Already a fan of his French American cuisine at Radius and with two other restaurants (Via Matta, Alta Strada) under his belt, the opening of Tico garnered much buzz and curiosity.Would it live up to the hype?! Justin, Megan, Michelle, Tania, Meghan and I decided to find out. On Tuesday evening I arrived at the new space located at 222 Berkeley Street excited to meet the anticipation head on. I arrived first and grabbed a corner window seat in the dark tequila bar where a waiter approached me right away. Tico boasts a full wine and tequila list, the beer and cocktail menus are still non existent in printed form. However, a plethora of bottled and draft beer and margarita options are available. I began the evening with a draft Negra Modela ($6). A robust Mexican lager, it hit the spot. We settled into our spacious table for six in a window front alcove over looking St James Street and decided on eight small plates and three taco dishes. Waters were refilled promptly throughout the evening and service was pleasant and attentive for the duration.
Once I finished my Nerga Modela I ordered a Margarita ($10) deciding that I should honor National Margarita Day (how fitting!) while I had the chance. This one definitely honored the day, it was strong and brightly flavored despite the fact that I couldn't tell you what kind of tequila it was crafted with. In addition to the standard lime, Tico offers Blood Orange and Pomegranate Margaritas that were well received by my dining companions. The dishes were delivered promptly to start and well paced throughout, lending aesthetically pleasing presentations with food that was for the most part, well flavored and incredibly tasty. Crispy Fried Manchego Cheese ($9) was a warm gooey meets crispy bite served with an inventive spicy pomegranate honey sauce. A play on a classic mozarella stick, this small plate was an instant winner. A place in my heart remains for any which way a restaurant decides to prepare a dish of Brussels Sprouts ($8). Tico prepares them with bacon, kumquats, mint and jalapenos and as predicted, I adored this combination.
The first batch of tacos up were the Crunchy Fried Chicken ($10) with fennel slaw & spicy buttermilk dressing.These were an excellent choice, the chicken is indeed perfectly crunchy and the generous toppings add layers of flavor.
The Shrimp Toast ($8) with avocado, pickled jalapeƱos and lime were intriguing as described, the plate boasting attractive looking rectangles of crispy fried shrimp.
Greasy little morsels they were! As eye-catching as they sat, glistening with oil, the greasiness ended up overpowering the minimal dollop of avocado and pickled jalapeƱo. Perhaps adding more of the toppings would elevate the taste.The Crispy Sweetbreads ($8) tasted rather bland, although I have to admit this is my first time trying them. The masa harissa, endive, blood orange and hazelnuts somehow weren't enough to boost the sweatbreads to a memorable status in my eyes. All was forgiven when the Creamy Gigante Beans ($10) with chorizo and green onion graced the tables presence. Also new to me, but far more exciting and flavorful than the Sweatbreads were these tender smooth disks, flatter and larger than your average white bean - it's a Gigante Bean!Up next were the Crispy Fish Tacos ($9) served with pickled onions & red jalapeno. They were good, but not great. Standard, but no wow factor. That spicy buttermilk dressing on the chicken taco is a tough act to follow. Wow factor came in the next dish of Octopus ($11) with yellow peppers, citrus, and Aleppo pepper. By now you all know my love of octopus, this dish had an energetic presentation with bright flavors to match. The Snap Peas ($8) with orange zest, Tabasco butter and “crunchies” brought a good amount of heat. The pea pods themselves were crisp and fresh. This is definitely a standout plate. Close up, oh snap!The Spicy Shrimp ($12) rounded out the taco plates in fine form topped with bacon and avocado. Keeping it simple, these tacos succeed. The final small plate was one amazing dish of "Creamed" Corn ($8) with Bacon, Chiles and Thai Basil A lingering heat from the chiles, marking this as the spiciest dish of the evening left the palate extremely satisfied. But we weren't content to stop there. That's right, Tico is also doing desserts. And doing them well. We went ahead and ordered the first three on the menu, beginning with a decadent and rich Super Delicious Chocolate Tart ($10). With tres leche ice cream, this tart was in fact super delicious. Can't argue with their description on that one. A refreshing bite of citrus fruit custard topped with whipped cream and sweet sugary strawberries was the Lemon Sabayon Tart ($10). My favorite,though, was the Chocolate Gelato Peanut Butter Mousse-Over The Top-Caramelized Banana Split ($10) with Mexican chocolate sauce and crushed peanuts. Chocolate and Peanut butter always wins! That combination with the caramelized banana was what took it over the top for me.
Tico's breakout on the culinary scene brings enthusiasts something new. It's not a traditional tapas bar, it's not your standard mexican fare, it's American food with Latin and Spanish influenced flavor profiles showcased in beautiful plates of food. My hats off to the chef.

Tico on Urbanspoon

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Fine Dining at Prezza

My birthday falls a week after Valentines Day, just long enough where another (as opposed to a dual) celebration dinner is warranted. I feel lucky for this week, appreciating that I don't have to share my day with St. Valentine. However, I'll gladly share my day with the likes of Presidents Washington and Lincoln. Allowed a day off work in their honor, my birthday saw lot of quality couch time wrapped in my bathrobe, leg warmers and fuzzy slippers. To get out of the apartment for a leisurely dinner was a much needed recess.Last year Adam and I ventured to Cambridge to experience Craigie on Main but this year the frigid temps kept us close to home. My North End restaurant of choice was Prezza, one of many places I have wanted to dine at for awhile now, but had not yet had the opportunity.
Chef/owner Anthony Catuano opened Prezza in 2000 at 24 Fleet Street, a quiet side location towards the outer end of the neighborhood just off of bustling Hanover. The restaurant was named after the ancient Italian village where his grandmother was born, a tiny town where they cooked with the local provisions of the land. Referred to as the old-world peasant style of Italian cooking; focused on creating robust flavors and hearty portions from scratch, Prezza uses this as their base of inspiration. The menu is refined to incorporate foods of the Mediterranean regions as well as fresh seasonal ingredients.
The wine list is extensive and the page long martini menu was terribly hard to pass up. Knowing a red would serve me better overall, I settled on a glass of Casamatta Sangiovese ($8), but am absolutely returning to the bar to enjoy a Black Fig Martini ($12) sometime soon.
We were started off with thick slices of bread served in an eye catching abstract tin, and just as Adam was noting his olive craving, fresh olives and oil accompanied.
The appetizer choices are robust, all of them set at a $15 price point. This is no bargain, however, I found the price to be reasonable based on our appetizer of choice. It was an easy decision for us to share the Wood Grilled Squid and Octopus ($15). You really can't go wrong with wood grilled, and stemming from a trip to Greece in 2007, octopus has long been a favorite Mediterranean delicacy.
The plate lies full of coils of squid and long tentacles of octopus in a light red sauce that served to compliment the wood grilled sea creatures without masking their beauty. The squid was briny and chewy, very tender with a smooth texture, while the octopus is tougher in comparison with its gristly tentacles and more delicate flavor. Braised white beans blend nicely in the sauce and toasted parsley accents the flavors.
Extremely pleased with our first course, I'd definitely recommend this appetizer if you are a squid or octopus fan, or even if you are a first-timer looking to branch out.
Veering slightly off the beaten path, forgoing the route of a standard entree, I was in the mood for soup. Being that it was 10 degrees outside, the Mushroom Soup ($12) beckoned to me with promises of porcini cream, white beans, roasted tomato and grilled bread. This was the only soup on the menu so I assumed it would be really good, especially at a $12 price point.
My instinctual cravings did not steer me wrong. First of all, the portion was exceedingly substantial. A large bowl serving an elegant blend of roasted tomato and porcini cream garnered a rich and flavorful base. Mouthfuls of hearty mushrooms in every bite, warm and earthy, slippery in texture while diverse in shape and size, were balanced by the smooth and ever so versatile white bean. This soup was pure joy by the spoonful.
Two slices of crispy toast delicately balancing atop them a mountain of fresh grated Parmesan cheese laced with pops of parsley were the finishing touch. I allowed them to melt into the soup, becoming softer bites as they soaked up the hearty broth.
Adam feasted on the Crispy Pork Chop ($26) with vinegar peppers, potatoes, roasted red onions and red wine sauce. The bone in pork chop was huge and perfectly cooked. The vinegar peppers were what made the dish in Adam's opinion. Once I took a bite, I had to agree, pungent red and yellow peppers were a stellar accompaniment. I was full and content after the bread, appetizer and soup course, but upon placing my order opted in for the Ravioli di Ouvo ($10). I appreciated our waiters candid tips, he let me know this is "one giant ravioli" and suggested I might want to order two. I declined the second but felt good about being thoroughly informed on the fact that only one ravioli was going to be served. Could you imagine expecting a plate full only to your complete surprise, getting this:
This jumbo rav was about six bites, stuffed with ricotta and an intact egg yolk tossed in a brown butter and sage sauce with shaved Parmigiano. Our waiter was prompt to offer fresh cracked pepper, which I accepted. Cutting into the ravioli, as you can imagine, was a feast in itself for the eyes.
The brown butter with its complex nutty taste and crispy sage marrying the velvety egg yolk, was amazing. Admittedly, I wished for a thicker more doughy ravioli as I felt the amount of pasta wasn't as substantial compared to the intensity of the yolk and amount of sauce it was bathing in. I was too full to lap up the excess with any bread, but was content to scrape the plate, draping fork fulls into my mouth. Overall, I imagine this is a difficult dish to perfect, and I was still pleased with the outcome.
The concept Prezza is one that customers can easily embrace, celebratory meal or not. While relatively expensive, they serve large portions of creative-without-being-overly-complicated dishes (besides the anomaly that is the Ravioli di Ouvo) in a refined and modern atmosphere. The ambiance is that of a dimly lit room done in neutral colors, with a long chestnut brown bar area surrounded by a dining room boasting white linen tablecloths backed by beige booths. Giving tasteful hints of color through art are unique statement pieces that line the walls. Featuring homemade pasta, a wood grill that is fired up daily and an extensive wine and cocktail list, be sure to detour off the main drag and visit them on your next trip to the North End!
Prezza on Urbanspoon

Tuesday, March 16, 2010

Natural Costal Italian at Mare

When people inquire as to my favorite restaurant in the North End (such an unfair question, but I get it all the time) Mare is one that ranks among my top 5. Mare (pronounced Mah-Ray) the Italian word for ocean, is not the typically hearty Italian fare one might expect from a North End restaurant, nor is it your classic Little Italy atmosphere. The focus is on all natural coastal Italian cuisine served in a sleek modern setting.

Dishes are prepared with finesse and expertise and the seafood is consistently fresh, but you should be prepared to spend. Appetizers average around $16 and entrees look to even off at around $30.

The last time we dined at Mare was back when we had just moved to the neighborhood! We had an excellent date night all around.
Mare participates in Restaurant Week Boston. This is the type of place, in my opinion, that you are going to get your monies worth. Three courses for $33.10? Yes, please. I booked a reservation for a Wednesday night 8pm. It was a supper busy evening; we were greeted with smiles and seated promptly upon arrival.
We perused the wine list first, settling on a bottle of Esperto Pinot Grigio ($35). I immediately recognized the twist top bottle as one I've purchased at the liquor store across the street for $16. A disappointing upsell for sure, but we really wanted a bottle of white wine to compliment our seafood and this proved one of the least expensive on the menu. Deciding not to let it dampen the mood; I happily sipped enjoying its crisp fruitiness while in anticipation of the first course. In the meantime we were delivered soft bread with a light organic olive oil for dipping. For the Primi course I chose the Thin Crust Pizzetta di Mare.
Sauteed calamari, shrimp and scallops were piled high atop a crispy thin crust with fresh tomatine, red and yellow cherry tomatoes and parsley.

All of the seafood was excellent, cooked perfectly with just enough seasoning to allow the clean natural flavors of the underwater creatures to shine.

I devoured this, it was a truly memorable first course.
At this point you've probably noticed, and might be questioning the many different color tones coming through in the photographs. No, my camera has not gone crazy on me. That would be the up-tempo zest to the otherwise simple and modern ambiance that is Mare. A photo shoot says says it best.
The translucent curtain along the back wall of the restaurant illuminates the space in an ever changing array of colors. My dining companion went from green with envy to yellow mellow in a matter seconds. The first time we dined here was at a table over by the windows, so it was nice to switch it up and experience the other side of the distinguished space.
Adam's primi course was the Grilled Octopus with Genovese pesto & potato mousse. We had actually split this appetizer in the past and loved it, so he was confident in ordering it again. Unfortunately, this time around it was left on the grill a little too long. Severely blackened and charred, he still cleaned his plate but that poor octopus was likely victim of a busy kitchen trying to keep up with the restaurant week demand.
It was a toss for me up regarding the entree course. Surprisingly, I was toying with the idea of choosing the Wild Mushroom Spaghetti a la Chitarra with porcini cream, truffle essence and spinach. I thought about how amazing their homemade pasta would be, specifically because I walk by here everyday on my way home from work and observe the sous chefs making the pasta from scratch through the open kitchen windows.
Debating it over, I eventually came to the decision that I was going again with a seafood dish.I chose the Grilled Rainbow Trout with Charred leeks, funghi trifolat and whole grain mustard vinaigrette.
For starters, the presentation was fascinating.
I was enamored with the mushrooms stuffed gently inside the whole trout.
While the fish head was rather intimidating, I managed to embrace it. The skin was perfectly crispy and the fish was melt-in-your-mouth tender and flaky. The preparation honored the trouts distinct (for lack of a better word) fishy flavor.

The pungent and grainy mustard vinaigrette added robust flavor without overwhelming and the delicate earthy mushrooms were a welcome pairing.Adam chose Chicken Under the Brick with Gorgonzola potatoes and brussel spouts. I didn't manage to snap a photo, but I can tell you that he loved it. Dessert took much less inner debate on my part, I wanted the Tiramisu Panna Cotta (my two favorite desserts combined!) When the waiter informed me they were out my voice shot up an octave or 5 "Already?" At this point I thought, come on Mare, I expect you to be better prepared and not run out of your feature dessert at 8pm!

The Apple Bread Pudding with apple caramel sauce it was.This forced me out of my comfort zone as far as desserts go. I am not typically a bread pudding fan, but Mare changed my mind!

The thick and moist spice cake laced with chunks of fresh apples was fantastic and that caramel sauce, divine. I no longer cared about the Tiramisu-panna-what? This hit the spot.

What did not hit the spot was the fact that our waiter offered us coffee after our dessert was cleared. It seemed evident he was becoming flustered as the night wore on. We were chummy with the table next to us throughout the meal, talking about our courses and such, so we noticed when the (same) waiter delivered them the check before even bringing their dessert. They were definitely taken aback and inquired/reminded with him about course number three. The rest of our service garnered no complaints and the meal was well paced, so maybe the restaurant week crowds were wearing on him?!Regardless, I simply adore Mare for what it is. They bring something entirely different to the North End scene which I can appreciate. Although their organic cuisine comes at a fairly hefty price point, it is nice that the restaurant week deal here mostly measures up.
Mare on Urbanspoon