Showing posts with label Trout. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Trout. Show all posts

Thursday, April 7, 2011

Bergamot: Worth The Trip?

Situated on the Somerville Cambridge Line on the outskirts of Harvard and Inman Squares at 118 Beacon Street, Bergamot is located, relatively speaking, off the beaten path. For me that means a walk from the North End through Beacon Hill to access the outbound red line train, a short subway ride to Harvard Square, and just about another mile walk after that. Truth be told, I don't mind a walk, especially through a charming residential neighborhood. But it still begs the question, is this out-of-my-city-limit-comfort-zone restaurant worth the journey?I review a lot of restaurants and while I attempt to portray in a positive light any and every establishment that makes a valiant effort, I'll let you know when something falls short be it a certain dish, a component of one, or even the service. But I must say, nothing makes me happier than when I don't have to. Bergamot is one of those restaurants that shines in absolutely every aspect of the dining experience.
This past Sunday evening with dining companions Amy, Emily, Megan and Meghan, all of whom have been fortunate to dine here in the past; I was thrilled to partake in what became a sampling of almost the entire menu, or what felt close to it! (Yes, you're in for a long post.) Bergamot serves Progressive American cuisine focusing on the use of locally sourced international ingredients. In other words, they incorporate exotic or unusual foods into familiar and approachable dishes. And be as it may no easy feat, every dish was outstanding and modestly priced to boot.
We started the meal with an Amuse Bouche of golden beet, creamy goat cheese, tangy pickled onion and chive. This bite preceded the appetizer course in splendid fashion.

{Appetizers}
A vibrant slice of smoked salmon, presumably cured with peppercorns and corriander lending a mild spice and an aromatic edge is the Salmon Pastrami ($11). Rolled into a loose cone-like formation and plated over Boston brown bread spread with Devonshire cream, celery jam and honey mustard meringue, a visually stunning and equally as delectable plate earns high marks. The flavorful and firmly tender Grilled Marinated Shrimp ($12) sat over a lightly dressed bed of romaine, red cabbage and frisee dotted with Picholine olives, Satsuma Tangerines, Feta cheese and pistachios. The picholine olives (your typical cocktail olive) sparked intrigue as we learned they were breaded and deep fried. The Satsuma tangerine, reminiscent of a mandarin orange with a particularly delicate flesh, added a tiny burst of sweet citrus to compliment the slightly bitter greens and tangy feta cheese. Showcased in the next appetizer, a farm raised delicacy of Grilled Griggstown Quail ($12) pairs the gamey bird with chickpea manchengo puree, chorizo dust, napa cabbage and piquillo pepper viniagrette. I can't remember when and where I've had quail, but I know I've tasted it in the past. While the counterparts were excellent, this dish truly allowed the quail to stand out so you really got a sense of its more unusual sweet nutty flavors and delicate texture. I saved the best for last, and really, they are all best in my book, but this Berkshire Pork Belly Ravioli ($12) was outstanding. Plump semi circular raviolis enveloping tender pork belly are placed atop a rich cream sauce and generously sprinkled with pistachio and crispy shallots. Central to the plate are some braising greens and flanking the outskirts would be quince, a sticky sweet fruit that was reminiscent of a dried cherry, except more juicy.A bottle of Schloss Mulenhoff Dass 1st Müller-Thurgau a dry sparkling white wine from the Reinheissen region in Germany paired well with the appetizers offering a light body with floral and mineraly notes.
Each of the appetizers, in my opinion, seek to push culinary boundaries and spark intrigue. They leave you with a lasting impression that you'll remember not only up until the entree course, but long past it.

{Chef's compliments}
Bergamot is run by Chef/Co-Owner Keith Pooler formerly of Harvest and Scampo. In addition to paying our table a visit towards the end of the meal, he generously took the time to prepare a scaled down version of the Pan Roasted Rainbow Trout entree for each of us to taste. The fish was beautifully prepared with an extra crispy skin, served alongside savoy cabbage, celeraic and a beet fondue.

{Cocktails}
Because they came so highly recommended, we decided to pair cocktails with our entrees as opposed to more wine! Between the five of us, three went with the Chambery Gimlet ($10) Beefeater London Dry, Rosemary, Lime, Dolin Blanc Vermouth and two of us, myself included chose the Momisette Sour ($10) Genever, Pastis, Orgeat, Classic Egg White Sour. I do love a tart and refreshing Gimlet, however I love the soothing froth of an egg white even more. The anise flavors of the pastis surprises the palate, throwing off the traditional sweet and sour balance of this cocktail in a good way. A very good way.

{Entree}
The Hudson Valley Duck Breast ($28) was my entree of choice. Cooked to a rosy-pink medium rare this duck is tender and robust, with a crispy skin intact. The dark meat is evenly sliced and plated to resemble a work of art, the potato laced jus and green garlic adding abstract visions and layers of intermingling flavors. And clearly, that's not all. This dish has a lot going on and all of it works. Juxtaposing the duck is a mustard and panko crusted braised endive offering a complex bitterness. Layered over the top would be the distinctly moist and earthy Maitake mushrooms. The rest of the entrees earned equally high marks. From the Roasted Lamb Top Sirlion ($29) to the Plantain Gnocchi ($23) and the West Coast Halibut ($28), everyone was pleased with their dishes.

{Dessert}
Hazelnut Baklava is not a regular menu contender, it was actually the dessert special this evening. Baklava takes me back to a distant vacation Greece, but it is not one of my go-to desserts. This one is a sure rival of any I tasted over there, the buttery sweetness and nutty crunch contrasting nicely with the creamy goat cheese.
Bergamot Scented Panna Cotta ($8) - now this is my go-to dessert! Not a Bergamot scented Panna Cotta per say, but a creamy gelatinous panna cotta in general. Accompanied by refreshing grapefruit sorbet over a bed of finely crumbled almonds accented with a forest green tarragon emulsion, I was nothing short of impressed.
The majority favored the Chocolate Chipoltle Cake ($10) for its intense combination of rich chocolate with a deep smokey spice. Oh, the torched marshmallow and sprinkle of peanuts didn't hurt its cause either.
We didn't order the Carrot Cake ($9) but in another generous gesture, chef sent this out with his compliments. I was delighted to sample this dessert after witnessing the presentation of three tiny cakes boasting rum soaked raisins, sandwiching silky cream cheese frosting topped with crispy carrots. It was fantastic. If you are a carrot cake fan, this dessert is for you.
Last but not least, a taste of the Meyer Lemon Beignets ($9) rounded out the dessert experience. I mean, how can you pass up a dessert that offers Tequila ice cream, never mind lemon curd filled bites of goodness dotted with cocoa nibs and espresso glaze? You can't and you shouldn't. After we settled the bill, a plate of Lychee pâte de fruits (small bite of jellied candies) were delivered. This subtle gesture was final a reminder of the thoughtfulness and attention to detail that was exhibited throughout the evening. I was so captivated by it all that I forgot to take a photo of the interior.{Photo compliments of Tim Llewellyn Photography Blog}
The warm natured and informed service embodies refined hospitality to a tee. The wine list is expertly paired yet unconventional. The bartenders fiercely shaken cocktails, as well the chefs innovative appetizers and entrees showcasing classic technique with locally sourced ingredients leave lasting impressions. The desserts stand in a class all their own; sublime and ethereal, I highly recommend you save room. The rustic simplicity meets industrial ceilings meets white linen tablecloths gives the space a homey neighborhood feel while maintaining a classiness all its own. Not only is Bergamot worth the trip, but I would highly encourage one. It would be an absolute shame to miss it.
Bergamot on Urbanspoon

Tuesday, March 16, 2010

Natural Costal Italian at Mare

When people inquire as to my favorite restaurant in the North End (such an unfair question, but I get it all the time) Mare is one that ranks among my top 5. Mare (pronounced Mah-Ray) the Italian word for ocean, is not the typically hearty Italian fare one might expect from a North End restaurant, nor is it your classic Little Italy atmosphere. The focus is on all natural coastal Italian cuisine served in a sleek modern setting.

Dishes are prepared with finesse and expertise and the seafood is consistently fresh, but you should be prepared to spend. Appetizers average around $16 and entrees look to even off at around $30.

The last time we dined at Mare was back when we had just moved to the neighborhood! We had an excellent date night all around.
Mare participates in Restaurant Week Boston. This is the type of place, in my opinion, that you are going to get your monies worth. Three courses for $33.10? Yes, please. I booked a reservation for a Wednesday night 8pm. It was a supper busy evening; we were greeted with smiles and seated promptly upon arrival.
We perused the wine list first, settling on a bottle of Esperto Pinot Grigio ($35). I immediately recognized the twist top bottle as one I've purchased at the liquor store across the street for $16. A disappointing upsell for sure, but we really wanted a bottle of white wine to compliment our seafood and this proved one of the least expensive on the menu. Deciding not to let it dampen the mood; I happily sipped enjoying its crisp fruitiness while in anticipation of the first course. In the meantime we were delivered soft bread with a light organic olive oil for dipping. For the Primi course I chose the Thin Crust Pizzetta di Mare.
Sauteed calamari, shrimp and scallops were piled high atop a crispy thin crust with fresh tomatine, red and yellow cherry tomatoes and parsley.

All of the seafood was excellent, cooked perfectly with just enough seasoning to allow the clean natural flavors of the underwater creatures to shine.

I devoured this, it was a truly memorable first course.
At this point you've probably noticed, and might be questioning the many different color tones coming through in the photographs. No, my camera has not gone crazy on me. That would be the up-tempo zest to the otherwise simple and modern ambiance that is Mare. A photo shoot says says it best.
The translucent curtain along the back wall of the restaurant illuminates the space in an ever changing array of colors. My dining companion went from green with envy to yellow mellow in a matter seconds. The first time we dined here was at a table over by the windows, so it was nice to switch it up and experience the other side of the distinguished space.
Adam's primi course was the Grilled Octopus with Genovese pesto & potato mousse. We had actually split this appetizer in the past and loved it, so he was confident in ordering it again. Unfortunately, this time around it was left on the grill a little too long. Severely blackened and charred, he still cleaned his plate but that poor octopus was likely victim of a busy kitchen trying to keep up with the restaurant week demand.
It was a toss for me up regarding the entree course. Surprisingly, I was toying with the idea of choosing the Wild Mushroom Spaghetti a la Chitarra with porcini cream, truffle essence and spinach. I thought about how amazing their homemade pasta would be, specifically because I walk by here everyday on my way home from work and observe the sous chefs making the pasta from scratch through the open kitchen windows.
Debating it over, I eventually came to the decision that I was going again with a seafood dish.I chose the Grilled Rainbow Trout with Charred leeks, funghi trifolat and whole grain mustard vinaigrette.
For starters, the presentation was fascinating.
I was enamored with the mushrooms stuffed gently inside the whole trout.
While the fish head was rather intimidating, I managed to embrace it. The skin was perfectly crispy and the fish was melt-in-your-mouth tender and flaky. The preparation honored the trouts distinct (for lack of a better word) fishy flavor.

The pungent and grainy mustard vinaigrette added robust flavor without overwhelming and the delicate earthy mushrooms were a welcome pairing.Adam chose Chicken Under the Brick with Gorgonzola potatoes and brussel spouts. I didn't manage to snap a photo, but I can tell you that he loved it. Dessert took much less inner debate on my part, I wanted the Tiramisu Panna Cotta (my two favorite desserts combined!) When the waiter informed me they were out my voice shot up an octave or 5 "Already?" At this point I thought, come on Mare, I expect you to be better prepared and not run out of your feature dessert at 8pm!

The Apple Bread Pudding with apple caramel sauce it was.This forced me out of my comfort zone as far as desserts go. I am not typically a bread pudding fan, but Mare changed my mind!

The thick and moist spice cake laced with chunks of fresh apples was fantastic and that caramel sauce, divine. I no longer cared about the Tiramisu-panna-what? This hit the spot.

What did not hit the spot was the fact that our waiter offered us coffee after our dessert was cleared. It seemed evident he was becoming flustered as the night wore on. We were chummy with the table next to us throughout the meal, talking about our courses and such, so we noticed when the (same) waiter delivered them the check before even bringing their dessert. They were definitely taken aback and inquired/reminded with him about course number three. The rest of our service garnered no complaints and the meal was well paced, so maybe the restaurant week crowds were wearing on him?!Regardless, I simply adore Mare for what it is. They bring something entirely different to the North End scene which I can appreciate. Although their organic cuisine comes at a fairly hefty price point, it is nice that the restaurant week deal here mostly measures up.
Mare on Urbanspoon