Showing posts with label Somerville. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Somerville. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Eat at Journeyman

To eat at Journeyman is an adventure. To appreciate the experience in an industrial factory turned dining room tucked in an alley in Somerville's Union Square, is to let go of any preconceived notions, to absolve your expectations and go with the flow. The menu is secretive by design and so is the speakeasy-esque location. If you weren't looking for it, you'd miss it, and if you wanted to know what you're ordering for dinner, think again. From a clipboard menu, chose either the omnivore or herbivore tasting, in three ($45), five ($65) or seven ($85) course denominations, with listings that vaguely hint to a main ingredient. We chose the five course omnivore menu, listed as follows: Salad | Potato | Whiting | Lamb | Caramel. The menu options change weekly as a result of the fleeting imaginations of the chefs and what the local markets as well the seasons dictate.
We were celebrating a birthday this evening, not that cocktails wouldn't have been in order anyways! I absolutely loved their spicy, complex version of a dark & stormy; the Stormy Weather ($8) which combined Whaler's Rum Rum, ginger soda, Cardamaro and peppercake bitters. Beverage pairings are offered at $25, $45 and $65, with the courses, respectively. Forgoing that option was almost a necessity given the already serious five course splurge! But the journey, the one you trust these talented academics turned chefs to take you on, proves worthy of such a cost.

The meal began with an amuse bouche of
gougères, a savory French cheese puff made with gruyere that melted into a pillowy, flaky pastry shell. A plate of homemade bread was served next, rustic and grainy, complete with olive oil for dipping and a pat of soft butter served on a rock. Dishes are small, impeccably prepared, and tantalize the senses on multiple levels. My sense of smell was constantly overjoyed, the aromatics straight away drew me in before I even had a chance to marvel at the food itself. After the smell, there was the site, more often than not a fanfare of ingredients displayed thoughtfully and artistically. The first course of salad contained (don't hold your breath!) roasted goat pumpkin with a lemon brown butter, red pepper puree, zucchini ribbons, braised leeks, glazed carrot and green bean, braised hakurei turnip, apple with apple cider, radish, broccoli floret, eggplant-mustard sauce, potato crumble, sweet potato puree, micro greens, fig and brussel sprout! The attention paid to each tiny piece of fruit and vegetable was remarkable, the flavors beautifully defined. I though the potato crumble was particularly inventive and that brussel sprout was probably my favorite bite. The potato course featured a potato gratin, the cube of flaky buttery layers was plated over a forest green herb emulsion, with a fluffy Greek yogurt and sour cream foam, sauteed spinach and finally, sprinkled with brilliant, earthy, hen of the woods mushrooms. This was an elegant interpretation of potatoes, the warm gratin and the cold foam nicely contrasting. Known for their intriguing and obscure wine list, I opted next for a glass of white; Bisson "U Pastine" ($10) 2004; Bianchetta; Liguria, Italy. Bianchetta is a rare grape variety found only in Northwestern Italy and "U Pastine" is local dialect meaning "a very special product". It paired brilliantly with the course up next, which looked quiet and unassuming in comparison, but proved to be anything but. For the whiting, a black sea bass sauteed in butter was plated over a bevy of bivalves including an Island Creek oyster and an Atlantic razor clam. The trio of seafoods were perfectly prepared, offering an exciting mash up of textures. The bacon clam broth also served to excite. A balance of savory, smokey and salty, with a touch of scallion oil, it offered depth without overwhelming the components. Next, a duo of lamb delights. One part roasted, one part braised in a barley-milk, with apricot kernel oil infused bulgar wheat, toasted pistachio puree, poached damson plums and black trumpet mushrooms, every element on the plate was poignant and delicious. I would really love to eat this for dinner again and again, I don't often get this excited about lamb. To transition from savory to sweet, a palate cleanser arrives in the form of a Beefeater Gin + Polar Tonic Gelee. How fun! Cleanse my palate it did, with a hint of cucumber sorbet and fresh mint. The caramel course offered a Greengage plum-caramel sorbet over a super soft caramel cake with peanut/cumin meringue and walnut brittle finished with brush strokes of sherry vinegar custard and dots of huckleberry sauce. It was a splendid ending point.
The length of our meal ran for almost 3 1/2 hours, and from what I have since gathered, this is not uncommon. The span in between courses was a bit longer than ideal, but the outcome embodies a true labor of love. The service all night was on point; plates were efficiently cleared, silverware reset like clockwork, and waters refilled often. The manager, Meg, visits the table accompanying most courses with a cheerful demeanor and a detailed explanation of of the dish.
If an open mind can follow you in, and you have the dollars, not to mention the time, to splurge, I highly encourage you to give it a try. Journeyman proves to be a dynamic and charming dining experience where deliciously whimsical food amazes the palate and feeds the senses.
Journeyman on Urbanspoon

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Artisanal Ice Cream Sundaes

Local purveyors joined forces this past Sunday to offer a free sampling of their products in the form of ice cream sundaes. Batch provided the ice cream and Taza Chocolate provided the toppings as well as hosted the event at their factory store located at 561 Windsor Street in Somerville, just outside of Inman Square. I ventured over with a few other bloggers around 1:30pm to learn about the products and sample the sundaes before the event opened to the public at 2pm.
We were introduced to Susie and Veronica the duo behind Batch as well as a number of friendly Taza employees. Taza produces 100% organic direct trade stone ground Mexican Chocolate. Stone grinding the beans is a traditional method of producing chocolate that involves minimal processing and gives the Taza bars their distinctive rustic texture.
Batch ice cream is produced one batch at a time at Crop Circle Kitchen in Jamaica Plain. The owners pride themselves on locally sourced, organic and fair trade ingredients. The milk and cream come from a dairy farm in Tiverton, Rhode Island, the sea salt and butter are from Maine and the coffee beans are from a company out of Orange, MA. The chocolate and the vanilla beans are sourced direct from farms in Costa Rica.
The ingredients on the applied-by-hand labels are all ones you can pronounce, foregoing any stabilizers that are often found in commercial ice creams. While this makes their product at little more expensive (cartons retail for about $7) it also allows for a superior taste, an incomparable freshness, a spoonful of the purest, creamiest, most luxurious quality ice cream you can ever recall tasting.Today we sampled the vanilla and coffee. (Note on the cartons the cute little icons to designate the flavor!) The vanilla is made with seeds from the beans split open by hand, never with vanilla extract. Vanilla gets a plane-jane wrap but this stuff is so fresh and creamy you will want to eat it plain! (At least at first.) The coffee carton boasting a tiny coffee cup as its logo is made from real freshly ground beans providing a taste that is a flawless balance somewhere in between bitter and sweet. The toppings provided by Taza ranged from just made chocolate sauce, to roasted cacao nibs to chocolate covered cacao nibs. All were a welcome addition to the made-from-scratch ice cream.Gotta love the Taza bike cart, just another effort that displays their commitment to sustainability.
The marriage of these two relatively new products proved quite a treat. Taza was founded in 2006 and Batch is coming up on its one year anniversary - founded in May 2010.
Offering high quality ingredients manufactured in a sustainable, socially responsible way results in a superior tasting product and one you feel good about eating. I was happy to have the opportunity to learn more about them both as well as check out the Taza factory store!
Above: Hand chiseled authentic Mexican stones used for grinding the chocolate. Below: looks to be some larger stone grinding machinery.
While inside I sampled three new Taza flavors - Orange, Ginger and Chipoltle Chili.
The flavors really shine through in their chocolate disks. Have your chocolate any way you like, sweet, potent or spicy.
Back outside: The event had quite a turnout!
Special thanks to Carol for providing us each with a bag of treats to take home including pints of salted caramel and coffee ice cream, a batch tee shirt, a Taza 80% dark chocolate bar and a can of chocolate covered cacao nibs.
Want some of your own? You can purchase Batch at a number of shops in Boston and surrounding towns. Taza Chocolates can be purchased at the factory, online and at shops in 40 states nationwide.

Thursday, April 7, 2011

Bergamot: Worth The Trip?

Situated on the Somerville Cambridge Line on the outskirts of Harvard and Inman Squares at 118 Beacon Street, Bergamot is located, relatively speaking, off the beaten path. For me that means a walk from the North End through Beacon Hill to access the outbound red line train, a short subway ride to Harvard Square, and just about another mile walk after that. Truth be told, I don't mind a walk, especially through a charming residential neighborhood. But it still begs the question, is this out-of-my-city-limit-comfort-zone restaurant worth the journey?I review a lot of restaurants and while I attempt to portray in a positive light any and every establishment that makes a valiant effort, I'll let you know when something falls short be it a certain dish, a component of one, or even the service. But I must say, nothing makes me happier than when I don't have to. Bergamot is one of those restaurants that shines in absolutely every aspect of the dining experience.
This past Sunday evening with dining companions Amy, Emily, Megan and Meghan, all of whom have been fortunate to dine here in the past; I was thrilled to partake in what became a sampling of almost the entire menu, or what felt close to it! (Yes, you're in for a long post.) Bergamot serves Progressive American cuisine focusing on the use of locally sourced international ingredients. In other words, they incorporate exotic or unusual foods into familiar and approachable dishes. And be as it may no easy feat, every dish was outstanding and modestly priced to boot.
We started the meal with an Amuse Bouche of golden beet, creamy goat cheese, tangy pickled onion and chive. This bite preceded the appetizer course in splendid fashion.

{Appetizers}
A vibrant slice of smoked salmon, presumably cured with peppercorns and corriander lending a mild spice and an aromatic edge is the Salmon Pastrami ($11). Rolled into a loose cone-like formation and plated over Boston brown bread spread with Devonshire cream, celery jam and honey mustard meringue, a visually stunning and equally as delectable plate earns high marks. The flavorful and firmly tender Grilled Marinated Shrimp ($12) sat over a lightly dressed bed of romaine, red cabbage and frisee dotted with Picholine olives, Satsuma Tangerines, Feta cheese and pistachios. The picholine olives (your typical cocktail olive) sparked intrigue as we learned they were breaded and deep fried. The Satsuma tangerine, reminiscent of a mandarin orange with a particularly delicate flesh, added a tiny burst of sweet citrus to compliment the slightly bitter greens and tangy feta cheese. Showcased in the next appetizer, a farm raised delicacy of Grilled Griggstown Quail ($12) pairs the gamey bird with chickpea manchengo puree, chorizo dust, napa cabbage and piquillo pepper viniagrette. I can't remember when and where I've had quail, but I know I've tasted it in the past. While the counterparts were excellent, this dish truly allowed the quail to stand out so you really got a sense of its more unusual sweet nutty flavors and delicate texture. I saved the best for last, and really, they are all best in my book, but this Berkshire Pork Belly Ravioli ($12) was outstanding. Plump semi circular raviolis enveloping tender pork belly are placed atop a rich cream sauce and generously sprinkled with pistachio and crispy shallots. Central to the plate are some braising greens and flanking the outskirts would be quince, a sticky sweet fruit that was reminiscent of a dried cherry, except more juicy.A bottle of Schloss Mulenhoff Dass 1st Müller-Thurgau a dry sparkling white wine from the Reinheissen region in Germany paired well with the appetizers offering a light body with floral and mineraly notes.
Each of the appetizers, in my opinion, seek to push culinary boundaries and spark intrigue. They leave you with a lasting impression that you'll remember not only up until the entree course, but long past it.

{Chef's compliments}
Bergamot is run by Chef/Co-Owner Keith Pooler formerly of Harvest and Scampo. In addition to paying our table a visit towards the end of the meal, he generously took the time to prepare a scaled down version of the Pan Roasted Rainbow Trout entree for each of us to taste. The fish was beautifully prepared with an extra crispy skin, served alongside savoy cabbage, celeraic and a beet fondue.

{Cocktails}
Because they came so highly recommended, we decided to pair cocktails with our entrees as opposed to more wine! Between the five of us, three went with the Chambery Gimlet ($10) Beefeater London Dry, Rosemary, Lime, Dolin Blanc Vermouth and two of us, myself included chose the Momisette Sour ($10) Genever, Pastis, Orgeat, Classic Egg White Sour. I do love a tart and refreshing Gimlet, however I love the soothing froth of an egg white even more. The anise flavors of the pastis surprises the palate, throwing off the traditional sweet and sour balance of this cocktail in a good way. A very good way.

{Entree}
The Hudson Valley Duck Breast ($28) was my entree of choice. Cooked to a rosy-pink medium rare this duck is tender and robust, with a crispy skin intact. The dark meat is evenly sliced and plated to resemble a work of art, the potato laced jus and green garlic adding abstract visions and layers of intermingling flavors. And clearly, that's not all. This dish has a lot going on and all of it works. Juxtaposing the duck is a mustard and panko crusted braised endive offering a complex bitterness. Layered over the top would be the distinctly moist and earthy Maitake mushrooms. The rest of the entrees earned equally high marks. From the Roasted Lamb Top Sirlion ($29) to the Plantain Gnocchi ($23) and the West Coast Halibut ($28), everyone was pleased with their dishes.

{Dessert}
Hazelnut Baklava is not a regular menu contender, it was actually the dessert special this evening. Baklava takes me back to a distant vacation Greece, but it is not one of my go-to desserts. This one is a sure rival of any I tasted over there, the buttery sweetness and nutty crunch contrasting nicely with the creamy goat cheese.
Bergamot Scented Panna Cotta ($8) - now this is my go-to dessert! Not a Bergamot scented Panna Cotta per say, but a creamy gelatinous panna cotta in general. Accompanied by refreshing grapefruit sorbet over a bed of finely crumbled almonds accented with a forest green tarragon emulsion, I was nothing short of impressed.
The majority favored the Chocolate Chipoltle Cake ($10) for its intense combination of rich chocolate with a deep smokey spice. Oh, the torched marshmallow and sprinkle of peanuts didn't hurt its cause either.
We didn't order the Carrot Cake ($9) but in another generous gesture, chef sent this out with his compliments. I was delighted to sample this dessert after witnessing the presentation of three tiny cakes boasting rum soaked raisins, sandwiching silky cream cheese frosting topped with crispy carrots. It was fantastic. If you are a carrot cake fan, this dessert is for you.
Last but not least, a taste of the Meyer Lemon Beignets ($9) rounded out the dessert experience. I mean, how can you pass up a dessert that offers Tequila ice cream, never mind lemon curd filled bites of goodness dotted with cocoa nibs and espresso glaze? You can't and you shouldn't. After we settled the bill, a plate of Lychee pâte de fruits (small bite of jellied candies) were delivered. This subtle gesture was final a reminder of the thoughtfulness and attention to detail that was exhibited throughout the evening. I was so captivated by it all that I forgot to take a photo of the interior.{Photo compliments of Tim Llewellyn Photography Blog}
The warm natured and informed service embodies refined hospitality to a tee. The wine list is expertly paired yet unconventional. The bartenders fiercely shaken cocktails, as well the chefs innovative appetizers and entrees showcasing classic technique with locally sourced ingredients leave lasting impressions. The desserts stand in a class all their own; sublime and ethereal, I highly recommend you save room. The rustic simplicity meets industrial ceilings meets white linen tablecloths gives the space a homey neighborhood feel while maintaining a classiness all its own. Not only is Bergamot worth the trip, but I would highly encourage one. It would be an absolute shame to miss it.
Bergamot on Urbanspoon