Monday, November 29, 2010

The New Kid in Town: Caffe Nuovo

The North End needs a quality brunch spot like the majority of America needs their morning coffee. The basic concept of eggs & bacon in this neighborhood leaves a lot to be desired. I was eager to discover if Caffe Nuovo, the breakfast eatery opened just last month at the longstanding vacant corner of Salem and Stillman Streets could fill the niche. As Adam and I entered the small modern space we were greeted by a host who I recognized as Frank DePasquale, the Chairman of the North End Chamber of Commerce and local restaurant entrepreneur (Mare, Bricco, Trattoria Il Panino, Umbria Prime, Splash). When I inquired about the restaurants ownership he explained this is not one of his own, he is just helping out the owners and hoping to see this spot succeed.
The brightly lit restaurant was bustling with clientele. Window seats overlooking the street prove a serene spot for solo diners. We were seated downstairs where the decor remained clean and simple with woven vinyl placemats, white linen napkins, dark hardwood floors, exposed wood beam ceilings and delicate light fixtures. A hi-def plasma TV on each floor blended into the background with the channel set to the local news.Coffee and water were offered right away and refills were prompt throughout. The speed at which our brunch was delivered was slightly less than prompt, but nothing to look down upon, especially since we felt well taken care of while we waited. I was beyond impressed with the menu as a whole. Caffe Nuovos dishes appear to remain true to Little Italy's Italian roots while satisfying classic American brunch cravings. Scali is the toast of choice and from the delicious sounding truffle scrambled eggs to the Italian vegetable fritatta, to the French toast with brandied pear compote, to waffles with fresh fruit and creme fraiche, they appear to know breakfast. If you're the pancake type, take your pick from apple, blueberry, banana or chocolate. The Spaghetti Carbonara caught my eye and I thought it was smart to offer a dish for the pasta lover seeking an early lunch. They also offer a Caprese salad with pesto and scrambled eggs, and a Milanse style veal or chicken cutlet topped with 2 eggs any style. The marriage of favorite Italian dishes with eggs is intriguing, but not as much as the Eggs Benedict served with your choice of lobster, grilled shrimp or lump crab. Hell-o and welcome to the neighborhood.
A huge sigh of relief followed as I noted the reasonable prices. Dishes average between $7-$10, with the basic egg breakfasts beginning at $3.95 and the steak and eggs clocking in at the standard high of $14.95. Our Seafood Eggs Benny seemed reasonable at $12.95. Adam chose the lobster and it was the shrimp for me.
Three jumbo shrimp were served alongside the Benedict as opposed to on top of them. I'm partial this method of plating so you have the freedom to drench in as much or as little egg yolk as you please. This also allows them to serve more shrimp (or lobster - Adam's had a significant pile) than might traditionally fit on two English muffins. The shrimp on their own were flavorful and succulent, the texture firm to the knife and tender to the bite with just the right amount of crunch in tact. A delicate dusting of paprika over joyously runny eggs and soft pillowy English muffins were completed by a side of savory homefries laced with sweet onions.The diced tomato and chive topping was excellent and mingled effortlessly with the poached eggs and thin velvety hollandaise. Located at 76 Salem Street, the caffe is open seven days a week from 7am-2pm. They also offer breakfast and coffee to go.
They are slated to serve dinner beginning at 5pm in the near future. I'm just happy they got the ball rolling with breakfast.
Caffe Nuovo fills a neighborhood void by offering North Enders an affordable sit-down brunch. With an impressive classic-Italian-meets-well-rounded-American menu, all they need now is a cocktail counterpart. Perhaps a liquor license is in the works? For their sake and mine, I sure hope so!
Caffe Nuovo on Urbanspoon

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