Piccola Venezia

I warned you 2012 was going to kick off with a slew of North End restaurant posts! I'm finally getting all caught up over here. Thanks for all the great comments and feedback. Sounds like a lot of you are itching to pay a visit to the neighborhood. (Be sure and let me know when you do!)

I have walked by this home style Italian restaurant located at 263 Hanover on a regular basis for the past four years. A few weeks ago, the time finally came to check out Piccola Venezia. On a Thursday night we entered into a large-by-North End-standards dining room which was nearly empty. Considering the waitstaff's laid back and seemingly unenthusiastic approach, this scene did not seem out of the ordinary. No one greeted us when we entered. After standing around for an awkward amount of time, we played the "should we stay or should we go" game; when finally the chef way back in the kitchen made eye contact and beckoned us to sit anywhere we like. I have no problem with seat yourself establishments, but it is something I never want to assume. The atmosphere takes you back in time, within a rustic kitchen meets Nona's attic inspired space we felt comfortable. The vintage looking paper placemats in faded red and white only enhanced the old fashioned vibe. Shortly after choosing our table, a member of the front of the house appeared to greet us with menus. With kitschy Christmas decor in place (the meal occurred back in December) and large kitchen utensils hanging among antique framed photographs set to a weathered exposed brick backdrop, we settled in with a standard bread basket and a round of Peroni($6) on draft.
The food came out in a timely manner, beginning with a surprisingly wonderful bowl of Mussels Marinara ($11.95). I say surprisingly because after the initial realization that only two other tables were in the restaurant and we didn't feel entirely welcome there to begin with, we were a bit skeptical of what to expect from the kitchen. The red sauce was incredibly flavorful with chunky tomatoes, thick slices of onion and a generous dusting of fresh green herbs. It did the steamed mussels proud. Further enhancing the appetizer were four slices of just crispy enough and perfectly buttery toast. On a low note, my Spaghetti Carbonara ($16.95) came swimming in sauce and was rather bland. The classic egg and Parmesan cheese sauce in abundance was super thick, somewhat cloying and lacked finesse. It weighed me down and it weighed the spaghetti down, too. I did enjoyed the thick cubes of pancetta, they were tender and added a welcome saltiness. Some fresh cracked black pepper might have helped its cause. (Their salt and pepper shakers looked like they hadn't been changed since 1992.) Unfortunately, this was not a dish I could truly get excited about. This was further evidenced by the fact that I never felt compelled to eat the leftovers I took home. If you're looking for a good carbonara in the neighborhood, I'm partial to the ones at Artu and Ristorante Daimiano. However, if you're looking for a good Tiramisu ($7.95), look no further. Homemade with espresso soaked ladyfingers, pillowy brandy infused mascarpone cheese, and cocoa, this large portion looked like way to much to take on, but ended up being the perfect amount. The tiramisu itself was supremely light and fluffy; this was exactly they type of dessert I needed after a heavy entree. Traditional, comforting and not too sweet, with a whimsical presentation, what's not to love?
A frothy cup of Cappuccino ($4) completed the meal. With an abundance of restaurants to choose from in the North End, establishments definitely have the power to sway me even after one visit. Piccola Venezia doesn't happen to make the cut of my personal favorites; all things considered. Taking into account the varied level of affection for the dishes I sampled, it was still a good meal at a very reasonable price point that left me satisfied but not necessarily eager to return.

Ristorante Damiano

Embracing the warm summer weather, an evening out in the North End commenced with drinks on the Ristorante Fiore roof deck. The only one of its kind in the neighborhood, the hidden oasis sits tucked away in the back of the restaurant which is located at 250 Hanover Street. I drank a glass of Sangria ($10) to kick things off before friends and I ventured just a few doors down to Ristorante Damiano for dinner.The sun was shining in on the the giant floor to ceiling, wall to wall window at 307 Hanover Street. After a long snowy winter and an even longer dull and rainy spring, open window fronts are a site to behold. We settled right in with a bottle of Planeta La Segreta Bianco. This Sicilian white is a versatile five way blend of 60% Grecanico, 20% Chardonnay, 10% Viognier, 5% Sauvignon and 5% Fiano. I don't know much about half those varieties, but let's just say, the wine was good! Damiano's has an extensive menu featuring Piattini which are Italian small plates meant to be shared amongst the table. Yes, it's "tapas-style" dining in our very own North End! However, these dishes look to offer more food than a traditional tapas plate and the prices certainly reflect that. The diverse menu offerings range from salad, to seafood, to pastas, meat and vegetables. We started with a Roasted Beet Salad ($10) Arugula, goat cheese, toasted pignoli, blood orange vinaigrette. Simple, well executed, delicious! The paper thin beets were hidden under the greens, their sweetness offering a nice contrast to the peppery arugula and creamy goat cheese.

Garlic Shrimp ($15) Sautéed Ebi Shrimp, garlic, thyme, lemon, over spinach were served next. When the shrimp came out we all commented / questioned its long slender look - not typical of the shrimp we are used to. I realized looking back, that would be because these are ebi shrimp! I associate ebi with Japanese cuisine, usually in the form of tempura (Ebi = shrimp in Japanese) but I love how they fused it into a flavorful Italian dish. I couldn't stop dipping my bread into the buttery garlicky lemony goodness that pooled in the corners of the plate. A traditional bowl of Carbonara ($11) pancetta, egg, parmigiano, cracked pepper, spaghetti was al dente deliciousness, the bold use of cracked pepper taking it up a notch. Necessary close up of those parmesan and egg coated noodles. The Lamb Lollipop ($14) dipped in pistachio crust, mint pesto, rubio glaze, fruit Macedonia was my favorite.

I loved the presentation, the meat was juicy and tender and that pistachio crust was to die for! The Baby Eggplant ($12) ovals of fried Japanese eggplant with tomato sauce, Parmigiano, and basil was also a standout dish. And note that this is Japanese Eggplant! I found it interesting that the Japanese influence shows up in a couple of dishes on the menu. This plate offered a generous flavorful portion of the vegetable. Same goes for the Braised Wild Mushrooms ($15) Garlic, sage, trace of tomato, truffle oil, Parmigiano polenta. A bowl of Mussels Vapor ($10) steamed wild mussels, white wine, garlic, lemon broth rounded out the meal.

The bustling space is small and cozy enough to know you're in the North End, but a polished modern interior and food the opposite of a classic heaping plate of pasta in red sauce makes you forget that you actually are! Piattini at Ristorante Damiano proves that Italian food can be diverse and eclectic. This was my second time dining here and the service remained consistent and the food as good as I remembered. I would happily return for a third visit!

But a proper evening in the North End can't end without dessert! Damiano's leaves that to the experts. Meaning, they don't serve it but rather they encourage business to their neighboring pastry shops and gelaterias. We debated - gelato because its finally warm enough, or cannolis because it's just what you do!?Umm, does a Caipirinha ($10) count? ;) We decided more drinks were in order and I lead the group to one of my longstanding favorites, Bacco. We sat at a table on the first floor opposite the bar, the warm breeze blowing in through the large windows overlooking Parmenter street. I'm grabbing drinks fairly often at Bacco's bar, yet somehow it has escaped the blog in its entirety! I am a big fan of their versatile drink menu and the staff is always super nice to boot. Not a bad place to spend a night out around here, not bad at all.

Coppa Enoteca

On a quiet strip of Shawmut Avenue in the South End sits the intimate yet lively enoteca opened in 2009 by the duo of highly acclaimed Boston chefs; leader Ken Oringer and protégé Jamie Bissonnette. Bissonnette, known for his nose-to-tail cooking, his palate challenging dishes and his way with charcuterie, takes the reigns as executive chef displaying his prowess by way of Italian inspired small plates at Coppa. At 7pm on Thursday, Elina, Meghan, Michelle, Bianca, Megan and myself were nestled comfortably at the table in front of the long narrow bar. The late evening sun show through the floor to ceiling windows in the background.Prefaced by a refreshing St Germain cocktail at The Franklin Cafe with an epilogue of Miller High Lifes at Delux, Coppa was the boisterous feel good Thursday night experience highlighted by some really, really good food and wine. The cocktails are inventive, sparking serious intrigue as they maneuver seamlessly around a full liquor license utilizing cordial based ingredients along with fresh juices, vintage spirits and house made syrups and bitters. A Negroni Rosato ($9) combines Rosato vermouth, Aperol, Bols Genever and rhubard bitters for a well rounded Apertivi. It was refreshing with bright and sweet flavors and a wonderfully bitter finish. As we navigated the menu with our good spirited waitress there to guide us every step of the way, we placed our orders in multiple stages, feasting on Stuzzhicini (small italian bar snacks), salumi, offal, cold-antipasti, wood fired pizza and pastas. Wood roasted Meatballs Alforno ($6) come coated lightly in red sauce, draped with a strip of lard and sprinkled in parmesan cheese with just a hint of breadcrumb. A completely blissful first bite, order these if you are a meatball fan for sure. Following was a Tonno Conserva ($7) which is cured tuna belly with anchovy, squash and parmesan on a slice of toast. It was apparent from the start that these small dishes are all about bold, unexpectedly alluring flavors.
A Salumi platter ($10) offers the freshest daily selection of thinly sliced house cured meats. From Duck Prosciutto, Rabbit Porchetta, Prosciutto di Parma, Mortadella and more, the perfect slices offering an array of salty flavors and various textures are served on a whimsical pig shaped cutting board. Pasta is available in half and large portions, the halves sufficing as plenty for six of us to each have a taste. The Trophie con Pesto ($13) combines pesto, pine nuts, piave and tender morsels of fingerling potatoes which impressed far more than a loose interpretation of Spaghetti alla Carbonara ($14) of house made pasta with smoked bacon, sea urchin and farm egg.Vegetables plates are delightful but probably less exciting in comparison. A well seasoned Funghi Marinati ($5) marinates mushrooms with Eva’s herbs. These tangy little morsels are served cold. Thick spears of Grilled asparagus ($7) were delicious however offset by an under-poached egg. Still edible with a runny core, but the whites were just a little too soft set for my liking. The wine list offers boutique and artisianal wines from Italy. We first enjoyed a soft supple Refosco Bastianich Rosato ($28) and finished off the meal with a sparkling Faive Rose Brut ($30). Crostini di Fegato ($6) which is chicken liver crostini with mostarda was a creamy pate that was both pungent and savory offering a unique depth that was appreciated by some but too abrasive for others. (I fell into the former category.)
The Salsiccia ($16) pizza is an absolute standout. While I was expecting to be awestruck by the non traditional offerings, without a doubt I would recommend ordering a pizza at Coppa. Tomato, spicy pork sausage, ricotta, and red onion (without the onion this time) is a well balanced blend of toppings; lighter on the sauce and generous on the ricotta, highlighted by the prevalent spice of the pork over a crispy wood grilled crust but an overall warm doughy pie. Simply amazing. Of course, I would also recommend trying at least one dish from the Offal menu, but I completely understand that the entrails and internal organs of butchered animals are not for everyone. We tried the Coda de Maiale ($9) a wood oven rosated pigs tail with mostarda glaze. I found it to be exciting and versatile - crispy and salty reminiscent of bacon in one moment and a bite of tender fatty pork in the next. Two of the evenings specials showcased praise worthy risk-taking combinations, the first a Burtatta and Black Cod Crudo. Almost an awkward pairing is sashimi style fish and the creamy buratta cheese, but one that I came to appreciate when the two silky smooth elements blended for what was in the end a pleasing combination, albeit one that didn't make friends all around the table. Same goes for the Chocolate Covered Foie Gras accented with a strawberry glaze. I'd be content if I never ate chocolate covered foie gras again in life; but that's not to say I didn't enjoy tasting it! I happily went back for a few more bites of this wildly adventurous pair. We finished the meal with a disappointing Bread Pudding that saw a few too many minutes in the oven. It was still edible with a lovely coffee whipped cream, but I'll spare you the unfortunate photo of the roughly charred top layer. I'd skip the true desserts in favor of ending the meal with a Formaggio Plate, proving, in the end, that simple dishes shine here at Coppa. I applaud the risk taking going on in the kitchen and really appreciated the chance to try some combinations that were as fun as they were interesting, but my favorites of the evening were the simple dishes done well - the meatballs, the pizza, the pesto pasta, the house cured meat and the cheese plate. If you're offal averse - pigs tails and perhaps chicken liver just aren't your thing, don't bypass this South End enotecca in favor of playing it safe. The menu is a versatile playground for all types of food lovers and when you combine that with swift efficient service in a lively energetic atmosphere, it makes for one outstanding neighborhood restaurant.