Coppa Enoteca

On a quiet strip of Shawmut Avenue in the South End sits the intimate yet lively enoteca opened in 2009 by the duo of highly acclaimed Boston chefs; leader Ken Oringer and protégé Jamie Bissonnette. Bissonnette, known for his nose-to-tail cooking, his palate challenging dishes and his way with charcuterie, takes the reigns as executive chef displaying his prowess by way of Italian inspired small plates at Coppa. At 7pm on Thursday, Elina, Meghan, Michelle, Bianca, Megan and myself were nestled comfortably at the table in front of the long narrow bar. The late evening sun show through the floor to ceiling windows in the background.Prefaced by a refreshing St Germain cocktail at The Franklin Cafe with an epilogue of Miller High Lifes at Delux, Coppa was the boisterous feel good Thursday night experience highlighted by some really, really good food and wine. The cocktails are inventive, sparking serious intrigue as they maneuver seamlessly around a full liquor license utilizing cordial based ingredients along with fresh juices, vintage spirits and house made syrups and bitters. A Negroni Rosato ($9) combines Rosato vermouth, Aperol, Bols Genever and rhubard bitters for a well rounded Apertivi. It was refreshing with bright and sweet flavors and a wonderfully bitter finish. As we navigated the menu with our good spirited waitress there to guide us every step of the way, we placed our orders in multiple stages, feasting on Stuzzhicini (small italian bar snacks), salumi, offal, cold-antipasti, wood fired pizza and pastas. Wood roasted Meatballs Alforno ($6) come coated lightly in red sauce, draped with a strip of lard and sprinkled in parmesan cheese with just a hint of breadcrumb. A completely blissful first bite, order these if you are a meatball fan for sure. Following was a Tonno Conserva ($7) which is cured tuna belly with anchovy, squash and parmesan on a slice of toast. It was apparent from the start that these small dishes are all about bold, unexpectedly alluring flavors.
A Salumi platter ($10) offers the freshest daily selection of thinly sliced house cured meats. From Duck Prosciutto, Rabbit Porchetta, Prosciutto di Parma, Mortadella and more, the perfect slices offering an array of salty flavors and various textures are served on a whimsical pig shaped cutting board. Pasta is available in half and large portions, the halves sufficing as plenty for six of us to each have a taste. The Trophie con Pesto ($13) combines pesto, pine nuts, piave and tender morsels of fingerling potatoes which impressed far more than a loose interpretation of Spaghetti alla Carbonara ($14) of house made pasta with smoked bacon, sea urchin and farm egg.Vegetables plates are delightful but probably less exciting in comparison. A well seasoned Funghi Marinati ($5) marinates mushrooms with Eva’s herbs. These tangy little morsels are served cold. Thick spears of Grilled asparagus ($7) were delicious however offset by an under-poached egg. Still edible with a runny core, but the whites were just a little too soft set for my liking. The wine list offers boutique and artisianal wines from Italy. We first enjoyed a soft supple Refosco Bastianich Rosato ($28) and finished off the meal with a sparkling Faive Rose Brut ($30). Crostini di Fegato ($6) which is chicken liver crostini with mostarda was a creamy pate that was both pungent and savory offering a unique depth that was appreciated by some but too abrasive for others. (I fell into the former category.)
The Salsiccia ($16) pizza is an absolute standout. While I was expecting to be awestruck by the non traditional offerings, without a doubt I would recommend ordering a pizza at Coppa. Tomato, spicy pork sausage, ricotta, and red onion (without the onion this time) is a well balanced blend of toppings; lighter on the sauce and generous on the ricotta, highlighted by the prevalent spice of the pork over a crispy wood grilled crust but an overall warm doughy pie. Simply amazing. Of course, I would also recommend trying at least one dish from the Offal menu, but I completely understand that the entrails and internal organs of butchered animals are not for everyone. We tried the Coda de Maiale ($9) a wood oven rosated pigs tail with mostarda glaze. I found it to be exciting and versatile - crispy and salty reminiscent of bacon in one moment and a bite of tender fatty pork in the next. Two of the evenings specials showcased praise worthy risk-taking combinations, the first a Burtatta and Black Cod Crudo. Almost an awkward pairing is sashimi style fish and the creamy buratta cheese, but one that I came to appreciate when the two silky smooth elements blended for what was in the end a pleasing combination, albeit one that didn't make friends all around the table. Same goes for the Chocolate Covered Foie Gras accented with a strawberry glaze. I'd be content if I never ate chocolate covered foie gras again in life; but that's not to say I didn't enjoy tasting it! I happily went back for a few more bites of this wildly adventurous pair. We finished the meal with a disappointing Bread Pudding that saw a few too many minutes in the oven. It was still edible with a lovely coffee whipped cream, but I'll spare you the unfortunate photo of the roughly charred top layer. I'd skip the true desserts in favor of ending the meal with a Formaggio Plate, proving, in the end, that simple dishes shine here at Coppa. I applaud the risk taking going on in the kitchen and really appreciated the chance to try some combinations that were as fun as they were interesting, but my favorites of the evening were the simple dishes done well - the meatballs, the pizza, the pesto pasta, the house cured meat and the cheese plate. If you're offal averse - pigs tails and perhaps chicken liver just aren't your thing, don't bypass this South End enotecca in favor of playing it safe. The menu is a versatile playground for all types of food lovers and when you combine that with swift efficient service in a lively energetic atmosphere, it makes for one outstanding neighborhood restaurant.