Showing posts with label Rose Wine. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Rose Wine. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 5, 2011

Discovering a Neighborhood Gem: Oleana

This will come as no surprise, but to acknowledge the obvious, I dine out a lot. I realize what probably seems like all.the.time now actually. Between blog events and family celebrations, date nights and girls nights and can't forget summer lunches, there is never a shortage of restaurants deserving a review. (I swear though, I don't go out every night!!) A good portion of summer evenings have me confined to my couch engaged in this seasons horror show that is The Bachelorette or the highlight of summer television, So You Think You Can Dance. However, this past Wednesday evening I finally got to experience dinner at a restaurant I have long lusted over. Certain restaurants in Boston and Cambridge, be them old or new, generate high praise thus striking a burning desire inside to visit (looking at you Coppa, Bergamot and Mistral just to name a few.) They give constant inspiration and remain a huge motivational factor behind this blog; tonight's dinner at Oleana was no exception. Opened in 2001 by Chef Ana Sortun, this neighborhood treasure situated between Inman and Central Squares in Cambridge serves exceptionally innovative and inspired Mediterranean cuisine with strong Arabic and Turkish influence. Oleana is home to an award winning patio, embodying a truly unique caliber of outdoor dining space. A plush herb garden surrounds inlaid brick, lights are strung overhead from a fig tree and a fountain bubbles in the background. Cozy nooks are created under a trellis accented by large clay pots blossoming with pink and purple flowers.Patrons literally line up prior to opening at 5:30pm (even on a Wednesday) to ensure they score a seat in this Near Eastern inspired Zen-garden. If pictures are doing no justice, take my word for it, it's a pretty magical place to enjoy a summer evening meal. Oleana has an extensive wine and beer list, but the small and elegantly simple cocktail menu beckoned. I chose the The Sortini ($10) a balanced creamy yet light combination of unfiltered sake, rose and lychee.
We began the meal with a bread bowl and some small meze. Starting in the top right corner and moving clockwise: Deviled Eggs ($6) with tuna & black olives, Warm Buttered Hummus ($5) with Basturma & Tomato and Whipped Feta ($5) with sweet & hot pepper. I don't know about you, but I typically eat hummus cold, so the warm dip took on a unique quality which was nicely accented by the thinly sliced basturma (cured meat.) The whipped feta with a bold kick from the peppers was plain addicting. I adore deviled eggs, these were an exotic take on a classic. A bottle of German Riesling Leitz Eins Zwei Dry was ordered for the table to accompany the next round of meze. This dry Riesling is something of an experiment by the winemaker. What is typically known as sweet white wine, the fruity definitions are not lost while the dry counterpart creates an approachable and full bodied texture. A visually stunning presentation of the quintessential Mediterranean delight - a perfectly prepared ball of Spinach Falafel ($12) comes with beets tztaki spread over a rectangular pita slice and topped with a spoonful of creamy yogurt. The crinkle cress and the single pickle add to the attractiveness of the plate while offering complimentary bites of flavor. This dish was a major highlight of the evenings repertoire. Next, we shared a tasty flatbread with grilled peaches and haloumi cheese cubes. The sweet tender peaches and the springy haloumi, (a sheeps milk cheese from Cyprus) were an intriguing pair that offered contrasting textures a top a paper thin just barely crisped crust. The Fried Mussels ($12) were exceptional. Perfectly plump and crispy morsels are flanked by hot green peppers and drizzled in a cool Turkish Tarator which is a light yogurt, cucumber, garlic and dill sauce traditionally accompanying fried seafoods. The Deconstructed Potato Salad special could also be taken for a loose interpretation of a Nicoise salad with its seared tuna and delicate soft boiled eggs. Admittedly, tuna, potatoes, eggs, tomatoes and peppers seem like a strange combo but they worked well, I thoroughly enjoyed this mash up of simple well prepared ingredients. I didn't particularly care for the Spicy Artichoke and Grilled Shrimp Crostini. This special sounded good in theory but didn't standout or warrant return bites on my part. A sight to behold were the Ricotta Loukoumades ($12) with thin slices of roasted beets and prosciutto. These fritters tasted just as beautiful as they looked plated over a striking beet puree. A sweet sparkling Elio Perrone Bigaro Rosato kicked off the dessert courses. Stuffed as we were, sampling the dessert menu was just as imperative as the meze. Especially with executive pastry chef Maura Kilpatrick who has been named Best of Boston, Best Pastry Chef four times, at the helm. In order of my least to most favorite, (deciding to save the best for last) the Sicilian Almond Cremolata & Warm Chocolate Panino ($12) didn't particularly excite me. Perhaps that is because it had some seriously stiff competition. If you were in the mood for an icey treat - cemolata with texture similar to that of a sherbet would most likely appease, the warm chocolate panino dusted in powdered sugar added a touch of whimsy. The pastry chef is known for her way with frozen concoctions after all, and the appearance of such is prevalent in each dessert we ordered. The Chocolate Hazelnut Délice ($12) paired a hazelnut cocoa nib tartlet with hazelnut praline ice cream for a rich nutty treat. I was enamored with the Native Strawberry Floating Island ($13) with moscato strawberry crisp and lime leaf ice cream. The meringue based substance embodied a texture so light any airy it dissolved almost instantly on your tongue. It was brilliantly suspended in a strawberry liquid with some fresh strawberry granita on top. If you can only choose but one dessert, the Baked Alaska ($14) has got to be it. It manages many feats of versatility by being both creamy and crunchy, tart and sweet and hot and cold. Coconut ice cream is scooped over a bed of chewy macaroon cake, covered generously with meringue and then baked at a high temperature just long enough for the meringue to firm. It effectively insulates the ice cream which is not only a magical feat in process but in taste and texture as well. The silky passion fruit caramel sauce takes it over the top with its bold tropical flavors. I'd strongly encourage you save room. While this is truly the dessert that dreams are made of, the same can be said for the experience in its entirety. The enchanting patio space for starters is matched by absolutely flawless service. Our waiter was both charming and knowledgeable while the manager played an active roll in engaging with patrons as well. Behind them a highly skilled kitchen with a knack for creativity producing dishes as outrageously inventive and exotically flavored as they come, Oleana ranks up there as one of my favorite dining experiences in the city.
Oleana on Urbanspoon

Thursday, May 26, 2011

Dinners in The French Quarter

With so many different restaurants to choose from and a slew of recommendations passed our way, the toughest decision of vacationing in New Orleans proved choosing where to eat dinner. Assuming they are all pretty fantastic, we probably couldn't have gone wrong had we chosen any one of the 20 spots on our list. It seems everyone from co-workers to cab drivers had a "must visit" spot and there was no way we could make each and every one (unlike our list of must visit bars.) Should you ever be faced with similar decisions upon planning a visit, I would highly recommend both Irene’s Cuisine and NOLA, respectively, our Friday and Saturday night dinner destinations.
After the days excursions we’d venture back to the Ritz to re-group and freshen up. Dinner was a necessary first stop before the Bourbon Street craze. It was a welcome respite; a time to linger over good food, bottles of wine and lots of laughs in a more relaxed yet formal atmosphere. (Formal in comparison to Hand Grenades and Hurricanes, relaxed in the sense that we’re not at a loud, rowdy bar - you catch my drift.)Irene’s offers lust worthy Creole-Italian cuisine in an old warehouse that underwent a transformation into a romantic setting housing multiple dining rooms with an antique-esque aura. It is highly regarded by the locals, and while you have to venture slightly off the beaten path it is still within the safe confines of the French Quarter at 539 Phillips St. It is definitely worth a trip and worth the wait. They do not take reservations and we were told to show up and hour and a half before we wanted to eat. The wait time (even though upon arrival were told 45 minutes) was closer to the hour and fifteen minute mark. We put our name in and ventured to a neighboring dive bar called Flanagan’s where we enjoyed some pre-dinner brews, a Miller High Life for me! Once we returned we were seated in one of the dimly lit dining rooms, offering a cozy table amongst the ever bustling scene. With smells of garlicky seafood wafting, a bottle of Pinot Noir already being poured and immediately being served a complementary Bruschetta, I knew we were in for an excellent meal. The bruschetta just slightly toasted with the warm fluffy bread quality still intact was topped with gooey melted mozzarella cheese and thick slices of tomatoes accented by fresh basil. This proved an exciting bread (if you can even call it that) course, starting the meal of on a high-note after such a long wait. A delightful appetizer came in the form of a Soft Shell Crab, the crustacean was skillfully fried in a light batter, the immediate texture beholding an airy crispiness giving way to sweet succulent crab meat. For my entrée I ordered the San Francisco style Cioppino ($23). Upon being served a huge oval bowl beholding shellfish bathing in a most luscious, velvety smooth saffron scented fennel infused tomato broth; I’d just about died and went to heaven.
From the plump gulf shrimp, to the well-executed mussels, the briny clams to the flaky fish, all of it was just a-m-azing. I can’t forget to mention those slices of ciabatta bread, achieving the not overly hard and abrasive but just crispy enough while remaining slightly soft texture. Seriously, this meal was perfect. Dessert saw a luxurious Crème Brulee and a rich Chocolate Hazelnut Torte in a vanilla raspberry cream sauce. The next evening we enjoyed a highly anticipated dinner at NOLA, one of Emeril Lagasse's restaurants located in the heart of the French Quarter on 534 St Louis Street. Thankfully, NOLA takes reservations and we were seated promptly upon arrival for ours at 8pm. The famous chef is known for his "New" New Orleans style of cooking which is essentially Creole cuisine with Contemporary American twists. The decor is in line with the cuisine, emitting touches of historic French Quarter elegance with an upscale modern industrial feel. Weathered brick walls surround high arched windows and dark gray pipes span the ceiling, serving to separate areas of the large refined warehouse space. A brightly lit open kitchen lines the far perimeter. A giant chalkboard menu boasting a list of cocktails in bold colors is tastefully eye catching set against a brick wall in the center of the room. Speaking of cocktails, I couldn't pass up the Sazerac which is a local New Orelans variation of an Old Fashioned, often referred to as the oldest known cocktail in America! Made with cognac, rye whiskey, absinthe and peychaud bitters - the Sazerac is seriously strong and provided an excellent apertif! With our meal we drank a bottle of (unphotographed) Rose wine but unfortunatley it didn't impress us. It was lacking any real depth and variety to it. The shared appetizer among us were the Wood Oven Roasted Escargot Rockefeller ($12) with herbsaint, parmesan and herb bread crumbs. This was my first time trying Escargot, the chewy morsels weren't at all intimidating allthough I think that had a lot to do with the flavorful preparation and the fact that they were oven roasted. It was something about grabbing a snail from its shell that had turned me off in the past, but I'd eat Rockefeller style snails anyday! My entree of Grilled Atlantic Salmon ($28) came over a bed of black bean and sweet corn succotash mingling in a chimuchuri butter sauce with a tomatillo salsa. The succotash is essentially what sold me on the dish over the more traditonal orders of Shrimp n Grits or Gumbo. (Which I tasted - and they were excellent.) A unique preparation made this otherise ordinary fish truly stand out. The salmon was grilled perfectly, displaying a nice char topped generously with what I think were dried onions. Their unexpected crunch added a welcome contrast to the soft flaky fish and flavorful succotash. Desserts were not to be missed! We enjoyed the Strawberry and Pistachio Bombe ($8) which was a creamy pistachio ice cream shell encasing a pink strawberry sorbet over a thick strawberry compote and sprinkled with toasted pistachios. But the clear winner in the dessert category was the Peanut Butter and Chocolate Cheesecake ($7) with Oreo crumbles, raspberry compote and chocolate drizzle.NOLA being the more expensive choice and Irene's proving a longer wait, still our experiences at both these vastly different establishments were superb. From the service with waitstaff who went above and beyond, to the perfectly prepared appetizers and well executed flavorful entrees, to the expertly crafted cocktails and the extensive wine lists. I will fondly remember these dinners in New Orleans not only for the amazing food that lingers on my mind but also the fantastic company. The nights were still young, even we didn't know how young at the time...and so it goes.....
Irene's Cuisine on UrbanspoonNOLA Restaurant on Urbanspoon

Saturday, May 14, 2011

Coppa Enoteca

On a quiet strip of Shawmut Avenue in the South End sits the intimate yet lively enoteca opened in 2009 by the duo of highly acclaimed Boston chefs; leader Ken Oringer and protégé Jamie Bissonnette. Bissonnette, known for his nose-to-tail cooking, his palate challenging dishes and his way with charcuterie, takes the reigns as executive chef displaying his prowess by way of Italian inspired small plates at Coppa. At 7pm on Thursday, Elina, Meghan, Michelle, Bianca, Megan and myself were nestled comfortably at the table in front of the long narrow bar. The late evening sun show through the floor to ceiling windows in the background.Prefaced by a refreshing St Germain cocktail at The Franklin Cafe with an epilogue of Miller High Lifes at Delux, Coppa was the boisterous feel good Thursday night experience highlighted by some really, really good food and wine. The cocktails are inventive, sparking serious intrigue as they maneuver seamlessly around a full liquor license utilizing cordial based ingredients along with fresh juices, vintage spirits and house made syrups and bitters. A Negroni Rosato ($9) combines Rosato vermouth, Aperol, Bols Genever and rhubard bitters for a well rounded Apertivi. It was refreshing with bright and sweet flavors and a wonderfully bitter finish. As we navigated the menu with our good spirited waitress there to guide us every step of the way, we placed our orders in multiple stages, feasting on Stuzzhicini (small italian bar snacks), salumi, offal, cold-antipasti, wood fired pizza and pastas. Wood roasted Meatballs Alforno ($6) come coated lightly in red sauce, draped with a strip of lard and sprinkled in parmesan cheese with just a hint of breadcrumb. A completely blissful first bite, order these if you are a meatball fan for sure. Following was a Tonno Conserva ($7) which is cured tuna belly with anchovy, squash and parmesan on a slice of toast. It was apparent from the start that these small dishes are all about bold, unexpectedly alluring flavors.
A Salumi platter ($10) offers the freshest daily selection of thinly sliced house cured meats. From Duck Prosciutto, Rabbit Porchetta, Prosciutto di Parma, Mortadella and more, the perfect slices offering an array of salty flavors and various textures are served on a whimsical pig shaped cutting board. Pasta is available in half and large portions, the halves sufficing as plenty for six of us to each have a taste. The Trophie con Pesto ($13) combines pesto, pine nuts, piave and tender morsels of fingerling potatoes which impressed far more than a loose interpretation of Spaghetti alla Carbonara ($14) of house made pasta with smoked bacon, sea urchin and farm egg.Vegetables plates are delightful but probably less exciting in comparison. A well seasoned Funghi Marinati ($5) marinates mushrooms with Eva’s herbs. These tangy little morsels are served cold. Thick spears of Grilled asparagus ($7) were delicious however offset by an under-poached egg. Still edible with a runny core, but the whites were just a little too soft set for my liking. The wine list offers boutique and artisianal wines from Italy. We first enjoyed a soft supple Refosco Bastianich Rosato ($28) and finished off the meal with a sparkling Faive Rose Brut ($30). Crostini di Fegato ($6) which is chicken liver crostini with mostarda was a creamy pate that was both pungent and savory offering a unique depth that was appreciated by some but too abrasive for others. (I fell into the former category.)
The Salsiccia ($16) pizza is an absolute standout. While I was expecting to be awestruck by the non traditional offerings, without a doubt I would recommend ordering a pizza at Coppa. Tomato, spicy pork sausage, ricotta, and red onion (without the onion this time) is a well balanced blend of toppings; lighter on the sauce and generous on the ricotta, highlighted by the prevalent spice of the pork over a crispy wood grilled crust but an overall warm doughy pie. Simply amazing. Of course, I would also recommend trying at least one dish from the Offal menu, but I completely understand that the entrails and internal organs of butchered animals are not for everyone. We tried the Coda de Maiale ($9) a wood oven rosated pigs tail with mostarda glaze. I found it to be exciting and versatile - crispy and salty reminiscent of bacon in one moment and a bite of tender fatty pork in the next. Two of the evenings specials showcased praise worthy risk-taking combinations, the first a Burtatta and Black Cod Crudo. Almost an awkward pairing is sashimi style fish and the creamy buratta cheese, but one that I came to appreciate when the two silky smooth elements blended for what was in the end a pleasing combination, albeit one that didn't make friends all around the table. Same goes for the Chocolate Covered Foie Gras accented with a strawberry glaze. I'd be content if I never ate chocolate covered foie gras again in life; but that's not to say I didn't enjoy tasting it! I happily went back for a few more bites of this wildly adventurous pair. We finished the meal with a disappointing Bread Pudding that saw a few too many minutes in the oven. It was still edible with a lovely coffee whipped cream, but I'll spare you the unfortunate photo of the roughly charred top layer. I'd skip the true desserts in favor of ending the meal with a Formaggio Plate, proving, in the end, that simple dishes shine here at Coppa. I applaud the risk taking going on in the kitchen and really appreciated the chance to try some combinations that were as fun as they were interesting, but my favorites of the evening were the simple dishes done well - the meatballs, the pizza, the pesto pasta, the house cured meat and the cheese plate. If you're offal averse - pigs tails and perhaps chicken liver just aren't your thing, don't bypass this South End enotecca in favor of playing it safe. The menu is a versatile playground for all types of food lovers and when you combine that with swift efficient service in a lively energetic atmosphere, it makes for one outstanding neighborhood restaurant.
Coppa on Urbanspoon