Showing posts with label Panna Cotta. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Panna Cotta. Show all posts

Friday, August 26, 2011

Restaurant Week @ Grotto

Summer Restaurant Week has been good to me; so good, in fact, that I find myself looking back on restaurant weeks past, wondering if certain meals were deserving of as much praise I gave them. All comparisons aside, the two weeks of prix fix menus are a great reason to check out new prospects and old favorite fine dining establishments throughout the city. I'm not sure how any RW appetizer, city wide, could stack up to the Chilled Local Corn Soup that kicked things off last Monday at Mistral. That meal went unphotographed, but the sheer brilliance of that first course can not go without mention. Over a week later, I'm still savoring the velvety smooth with just a hint of cream soup, which was ladled atop a mountain of shredded lump crab surrounded by thick bites of soft avocado. A finishing swirl of Jalapeno oil lent a slow heat, in lovely contrast with the sweet corn flavors. It was gracefully plated and texturally playful, truly a standout of soups I've tasted. The rest of the meal continued in fine form (Mustard Glazed Salmon, Chocolate Cake with cappuccino sauce, oh yes) and tonight, the meal at Grotto, an unassuming subterranean spot located on a quiet street on the back side of Beacon Hill, was just as poignant.As I descended into the tiny cave like space where exposed brick and stone walls are met with black shelving housing rows of wine bottles; I spotted my dining companion, Lindsey of Beantown Eats sipping Chardonnay at a cozy two top. The cavernous dining room is characterized by sweeping floor to ceiling red curtains and industrial ceilings with exposed piping, dangling from them two small ornate chandeliers. After soaking in the atmosphere, I turned my attention to the wine list. Lindsey remarked the Chardonnay was a little sweeter than she expected, which was helpful since I was in the mood for a crisp, dry white wine. I opted for a Quartino of Sauvignon Blanc ($12). I appreciated the reasonable price point of this small caraffe (about two glasses worth.) Why settle on one when you can get two for just a few dollars more? With soft bread and a plate of olive oil served shortly after, we were off to an impressive start. Grotto's Restaurant Week menu presents you with nearly all the same dishes as their regular menu, surpassing the typical three choice dishes that most restaurants are accustomed to offering. It proves for some difficult decision making, our waitress happily weighed in on her favorites. For the Primi course I settled on the Mare, essentially a grilled calamari salad, while Lindsey chose the Fontina Cheese Foundue served with beef tenderloin, aged balsamic, truffle oil and portobello mushrooms. Drastically different appetizers, mine light and summery, hers exuding a cold weather heartiness; both were solid. Under a bed of lemony dressed greens specked with red peppers laid tender coils of grilled calamari, elevated by a smooth white bean puree. The calamari preparation exhibited a level of finesse akin to the avocado corn soup at Mistral, I'll be savoring it for days to come. Off all the secondi courses listed, the Potato Gnocchi with Short Ribs, Mushrooms and Gorgonzola caught both of our attentions first. This also happened to be one of the waitresses top recommendations and neither of us could pass it up. A generous portion of smooth as silk, fluffy as clouds, grooved potato dumplings were paired with fork tender shortrib cubes in a deeply flavorful brown sauce laced with slippery shitake mushrooms and just a dusting of sharp gorgonzola cheese. Trusting our initial instincts paid off. This was absolutely phenomenal. Lindsey and I both agreed we had to spare a few bites for leftovers to take home to our significant others. Aren't we thoughtful?! For dolce, I chose one of the lighter options to follow up a hearty entree.A blend of velvety custard and smooth gelatin, one of my all time favorites, Panna Cotta. Grotto's lemon version is bright and refreshing with a decadent balsamic raspberry sauce and a crispy pizzelle cookie. Lindsey chose the Banana Bread Budding with a double dose of caramel in ice cream and sauce form, with a finishing touch of candied spiced pecans. Restaurant week dessert courses sometimes feel neglected, leaving a lot to be desired; but at Grotto, that is entirely not the case. Both of our desserts were outstanding and especially so because we paired them with a dessert wine, the Falchini Vin Santo ($9) which offered a balanced sweetness and pronounced nuttiness with a sharp clean finish. After reviewing the website, I realized Grotto serves a restaurant week-esque menu all the time. A three course menu option is available seven nights a week for $34. No wonder they excel at this. I'm just happy to have finally discovered this neighborhood hidden jewel. An intimate and cozy space tucked inconspicuously underneath a Beacon Hill brownstone at 37 Bowdoin Street, I highly recommend Grotto for comforting, contemporary Italian dishes at a reasonable price point.
Grotto on Urbanspoon

Thursday, April 7, 2011

Bergamot: Worth The Trip?

Situated on the Somerville Cambridge Line on the outskirts of Harvard and Inman Squares at 118 Beacon Street, Bergamot is located, relatively speaking, off the beaten path. For me that means a walk from the North End through Beacon Hill to access the outbound red line train, a short subway ride to Harvard Square, and just about another mile walk after that. Truth be told, I don't mind a walk, especially through a charming residential neighborhood. But it still begs the question, is this out-of-my-city-limit-comfort-zone restaurant worth the journey?I review a lot of restaurants and while I attempt to portray in a positive light any and every establishment that makes a valiant effort, I'll let you know when something falls short be it a certain dish, a component of one, or even the service. But I must say, nothing makes me happier than when I don't have to. Bergamot is one of those restaurants that shines in absolutely every aspect of the dining experience.
This past Sunday evening with dining companions Amy, Emily, Megan and Meghan, all of whom have been fortunate to dine here in the past; I was thrilled to partake in what became a sampling of almost the entire menu, or what felt close to it! (Yes, you're in for a long post.) Bergamot serves Progressive American cuisine focusing on the use of locally sourced international ingredients. In other words, they incorporate exotic or unusual foods into familiar and approachable dishes. And be as it may no easy feat, every dish was outstanding and modestly priced to boot.
We started the meal with an Amuse Bouche of golden beet, creamy goat cheese, tangy pickled onion and chive. This bite preceded the appetizer course in splendid fashion.

{Appetizers}
A vibrant slice of smoked salmon, presumably cured with peppercorns and corriander lending a mild spice and an aromatic edge is the Salmon Pastrami ($11). Rolled into a loose cone-like formation and plated over Boston brown bread spread with Devonshire cream, celery jam and honey mustard meringue, a visually stunning and equally as delectable plate earns high marks. The flavorful and firmly tender Grilled Marinated Shrimp ($12) sat over a lightly dressed bed of romaine, red cabbage and frisee dotted with Picholine olives, Satsuma Tangerines, Feta cheese and pistachios. The picholine olives (your typical cocktail olive) sparked intrigue as we learned they were breaded and deep fried. The Satsuma tangerine, reminiscent of a mandarin orange with a particularly delicate flesh, added a tiny burst of sweet citrus to compliment the slightly bitter greens and tangy feta cheese. Showcased in the next appetizer, a farm raised delicacy of Grilled Griggstown Quail ($12) pairs the gamey bird with chickpea manchengo puree, chorizo dust, napa cabbage and piquillo pepper viniagrette. I can't remember when and where I've had quail, but I know I've tasted it in the past. While the counterparts were excellent, this dish truly allowed the quail to stand out so you really got a sense of its more unusual sweet nutty flavors and delicate texture. I saved the best for last, and really, they are all best in my book, but this Berkshire Pork Belly Ravioli ($12) was outstanding. Plump semi circular raviolis enveloping tender pork belly are placed atop a rich cream sauce and generously sprinkled with pistachio and crispy shallots. Central to the plate are some braising greens and flanking the outskirts would be quince, a sticky sweet fruit that was reminiscent of a dried cherry, except more juicy.A bottle of Schloss Mulenhoff Dass 1st Müller-Thurgau a dry sparkling white wine from the Reinheissen region in Germany paired well with the appetizers offering a light body with floral and mineraly notes.
Each of the appetizers, in my opinion, seek to push culinary boundaries and spark intrigue. They leave you with a lasting impression that you'll remember not only up until the entree course, but long past it.

{Chef's compliments}
Bergamot is run by Chef/Co-Owner Keith Pooler formerly of Harvest and Scampo. In addition to paying our table a visit towards the end of the meal, he generously took the time to prepare a scaled down version of the Pan Roasted Rainbow Trout entree for each of us to taste. The fish was beautifully prepared with an extra crispy skin, served alongside savoy cabbage, celeraic and a beet fondue.

{Cocktails}
Because they came so highly recommended, we decided to pair cocktails with our entrees as opposed to more wine! Between the five of us, three went with the Chambery Gimlet ($10) Beefeater London Dry, Rosemary, Lime, Dolin Blanc Vermouth and two of us, myself included chose the Momisette Sour ($10) Genever, Pastis, Orgeat, Classic Egg White Sour. I do love a tart and refreshing Gimlet, however I love the soothing froth of an egg white even more. The anise flavors of the pastis surprises the palate, throwing off the traditional sweet and sour balance of this cocktail in a good way. A very good way.

{Entree}
The Hudson Valley Duck Breast ($28) was my entree of choice. Cooked to a rosy-pink medium rare this duck is tender and robust, with a crispy skin intact. The dark meat is evenly sliced and plated to resemble a work of art, the potato laced jus and green garlic adding abstract visions and layers of intermingling flavors. And clearly, that's not all. This dish has a lot going on and all of it works. Juxtaposing the duck is a mustard and panko crusted braised endive offering a complex bitterness. Layered over the top would be the distinctly moist and earthy Maitake mushrooms. The rest of the entrees earned equally high marks. From the Roasted Lamb Top Sirlion ($29) to the Plantain Gnocchi ($23) and the West Coast Halibut ($28), everyone was pleased with their dishes.

{Dessert}
Hazelnut Baklava is not a regular menu contender, it was actually the dessert special this evening. Baklava takes me back to a distant vacation Greece, but it is not one of my go-to desserts. This one is a sure rival of any I tasted over there, the buttery sweetness and nutty crunch contrasting nicely with the creamy goat cheese.
Bergamot Scented Panna Cotta ($8) - now this is my go-to dessert! Not a Bergamot scented Panna Cotta per say, but a creamy gelatinous panna cotta in general. Accompanied by refreshing grapefruit sorbet over a bed of finely crumbled almonds accented with a forest green tarragon emulsion, I was nothing short of impressed.
The majority favored the Chocolate Chipoltle Cake ($10) for its intense combination of rich chocolate with a deep smokey spice. Oh, the torched marshmallow and sprinkle of peanuts didn't hurt its cause either.
We didn't order the Carrot Cake ($9) but in another generous gesture, chef sent this out with his compliments. I was delighted to sample this dessert after witnessing the presentation of three tiny cakes boasting rum soaked raisins, sandwiching silky cream cheese frosting topped with crispy carrots. It was fantastic. If you are a carrot cake fan, this dessert is for you.
Last but not least, a taste of the Meyer Lemon Beignets ($9) rounded out the dessert experience. I mean, how can you pass up a dessert that offers Tequila ice cream, never mind lemon curd filled bites of goodness dotted with cocoa nibs and espresso glaze? You can't and you shouldn't. After we settled the bill, a plate of Lychee pâte de fruits (small bite of jellied candies) were delivered. This subtle gesture was final a reminder of the thoughtfulness and attention to detail that was exhibited throughout the evening. I was so captivated by it all that I forgot to take a photo of the interior.{Photo compliments of Tim Llewellyn Photography Blog}
The warm natured and informed service embodies refined hospitality to a tee. The wine list is expertly paired yet unconventional. The bartenders fiercely shaken cocktails, as well the chefs innovative appetizers and entrees showcasing classic technique with locally sourced ingredients leave lasting impressions. The desserts stand in a class all their own; sublime and ethereal, I highly recommend you save room. The rustic simplicity meets industrial ceilings meets white linen tablecloths gives the space a homey neighborhood feel while maintaining a classiness all its own. Not only is Bergamot worth the trip, but I would highly encourage one. It would be an absolute shame to miss it.
Bergamot on Urbanspoon

Friday, March 18, 2011

Restaurant Week at B&G Oysters

It's Restaurant Week in Boston! Love it or hate it, you all know the drill; the infamous $33.11 prix fix menu exclusive of tax, tip and beverages sees the masses flocking to upscale neighborhood restaurants to get their fill of three course lunches and dinners.
Fully aware I'm little late on the uptake this go round as we're almost through week number two, to that I say: better late than never. I scored one of the last reservations this week (at least, according to Open Table) at my restaurant of choice for Wednesday at 6:45 pm. B&G Oysters of Barbara Lynch Grouppo infamy is a tiny subterranean spot on the corner of Tremont and Waltham Streets in the South End; showcasing true to Barbara Lynch form, classic New England Seafood in a polished modern atmosphere. A white marble bar surrounds an energetic open kitchen on three sides, flanked by polished high tops and cozy booths. Lightly shimmering gold vinyl padded seating is backed by a hexagonal chalky colored pattern. We sat tucked in a corner nook with front row seats. Directly across my vantage point was the open kitchen and the always-clear-of-patrons space at the bar where food is expedited. Witness to a constant out pour of simple yet stunning seafood plates and a vibrant scene of waitresses weaving swiftly through the small space, I was easily taken by the high energy meets smooth service vibe. A flawless delivery of freshly shucked oyster trays were served to a bar full of clientele eager to get their slurp on. As we settled in with the menus, it was clear we had to start with a small platter of our own. But first, a glass of vino. I chose the 2009 Loimer Grüner Veltliner Cuvee Cat ($12) (Kamptal) a wine bottled especially for B&G Oysters each year. Adam drank an overpriced (just calling it like I see it) Newcastle Bottle ($7). Presented with a hand held index card listing the Oysters Of The Day ($2.75 each) I grew eagerly excited upon spotting Mayflower Point Oysters from the native town of Dennisport, MA. My hometown of Yarmouthport neighbors Dennis, so I was excited to try some oysters from home!We also decided on Malpeque Bay Oysters from P.E.I. and upon delivery were instructed to eat those first.The Malpeque oyster was plump and silky, definitely a milder saltiness, a heavier sweetness, with a clean sweet finish. The Mayflower Point was also a plump oyster, saltier than the latter but overall a medium brine, with a clean finish. I took care to savor these both, wishing I could sample the whole index card full, but at $2.75 a pop, these salty gems of the coastal waters make a fast easy dent in your wallet. Plus, we had an entire three course meal to dive into!
Adam started with the Clam Chowder served with spicy croutons and lardoons. I sampled a few bites, the broth lent a balanced consistency with permeating flavors of the sea and ample chunks of clam. In short, an excellent clam chowder.
The portion seemed a tad on the small side, especially so compared to my Lobster Arancini. To my delight plated were four crispy fried rice balls seasoned with chervil over avocado creme fraiche. A fine line is walked with such an Italian delicacy, I've had overdone arancini that becomes dry and pasty, luckily this was just the opposite. The risotto remained tender and moist infused with finely diced lobster adding that sweet succulent flavor to balance the ever so slightly sour notes of the avocado creme fraiche.
Neither of us could pass up the Moules Frites made with white wine, parsley and shallot in favor of the Scottish Salmon in a mushroom ragout, with red lentils and horseradish cream. We intended on a whole plate of mussels each, that's just how it was going down. An impressive proportion of both moules and frites graced us, piping hot with ringlets of shallots laced throughout the mussel shells and an abundant display of parsley on top. Adam loved the mussels instantly, but I wasn't completely enamored. They were standard in size, but at times tasted almost a little mealy. I hate to say it because they weren't bad, they just weren't blow-me-away-good. (Like the oysters were.) The creamy white wine broth was enjoyed by the spoonful once I cleared a path to the bottom of the dish. I think the plating made it difficult for the mussels to soak up the intended flavors of the broth. The true standout of this dish, were those frites. What more can I say that hasn't already been said about the beloved french fry? All too commonly I eat them, shapes and sizes abound, different shades of golden, varying textures of crispiness, proclaiming my love 8 ways till Sunday. B&G's embody all that I adore, standing out especially so with bright green specks of parsley clinging to individual strands. They are bursting with saltiness, crispy and deep fried, just greasy enough, dunked in cold ketchup and enjoyed to the utmost potential.
We were offered coffee with dessert and it was clear they brewed a fresh pot for us.
Our plan of attack for dessert was to share one of each. The Brown Butter Panna Cotta with its caramelized banana and candied almonds stole the show. Easily one of the best Panna Cottas I've ever had, the mouth feel with a slightly grainy consistency from the brown butter tickled my tongue before it melted down smooth, almost like ice cream. The texture was definitely more creamy than gelatinous and the flavors were exquisite. That's not to underestimate the Chocolate Cake with peanut butter mousse and peanut brittle because even though the Panna Cotta far and away surpassed, this was still a commendable dessert. Not too sweet nor cloyingly rich, both the density of the cake and the airiness of the peanut butter mousse gave a lighter twist on a classic ingredient pairing. The candied almonds in the former dessert and the peanut brittle in the latter served as a playful element that both elevated the dishes and nearly cracked a tooth.

Our meal was flawlessly paced, lasting about 2 hours in total. We lingered in between courses but never for too long. Our waitress had an interesting disposition about her, as she was not overly friendly or extremely bubbly, but had a more subdued quality in her approach that made me feel at ease. She smiled but not overly so, she was nice without forcing the charm.
B&G Oysters runs like a well oiled machine. I suppose this should comes as no surprise, when you have an entire restaurant able to watch your every move in the kitchen and on the floor, there is no other option. While restaurant week at B&G for the most part holds up its end of the bargain, there is no need to wait for a special occasion prix fix menu to enjoy this South End neighborhood gem. I'd be content to sip Grüner and shoot oysters at the bar any night of any week.
B & G Oysters on Urbanspoon

Other Indulge Inspire Imbibe Restaurant Week Reviews:
Mare (North End)
Sportello (Fort Point Channel)
Woodward (Downtown Crossing)
Vinoteca Di Monica (North End)