Restaurant Week at B&G Oysters

It's Restaurant Week in Boston! Love it or hate it, you all know the drill; the infamous $33.11 prix fix menu exclusive of tax, tip and beverages sees the masses flocking to upscale neighborhood restaurants to get their fill of three course lunches and dinners.

Fully aware I'm little late on the uptake this go round as we're almost through week number two, to that I say: better late than never. I scored one of the last reservations this week (at least, according to Open Table) at my restaurant of choice for Wednesday at 6:45 pm. B&G Oysters of Barbara Lynch Grouppo infamy is a tiny subterranean spot on the corner of Tremont and Waltham Streets in the South End; showcasing true to Barbara Lynch form, classic New England Seafood in a polished modern atmosphere. A white marble bar surrounds an energetic open kitchen on three sides, flanked by polished high tops and cozy booths. Lightly shimmering gold vinyl padded seating is backed by a hexagonal chalky colored pattern. We sat tucked in a corner nook with front row seats. Directly across my vantage point was the open kitchen and the always-clear-of-patrons space at the bar where food is expedited. Witness to a constant out pour of simple yet stunning seafood plates and a vibrant scene of waitresses weaving swiftly through the small space, I was easily taken by the high energy meets smooth service vibe. A flawless delivery of freshly shucked oyster trays were served to a bar full of clientele eager to get their slurp on. As we settled in with the menus, it was clear we had to start with a small platter of our own. But first, a glass of vino. I chose the 2009 Loimer Grüner Veltliner Cuvee Cat ($12) (Kamptal) a wine bottled especially for B&G Oysters each year. Adam drank an overpriced (just calling it like I see it) Newcastle Bottle ($7). Presented with a hand held index card listing the Oysters Of The Day ($2.75 each) I grew eagerly excited upon spotting Mayflower Point Oysters from the native town of Dennisport, MA. My hometown of Yarmouthport neighbors Dennis, so I was excited to try some oysters from home!We also decided on Malpeque Bay Oysters from P.E.I. and upon delivery were instructed to eat those first.The Malpeque oyster was plump and silky, definitely a milder saltiness, a heavier sweetness, with a clean sweet finish. The Mayflower Point was also a plump oyster, saltier than the latter but overall a medium brine, with a clean finish. I took care to savor these both, wishing I could sample the whole index card full, but at $2.75 a pop, these salty gems of the coastal waters make a fast easy dent in your wallet. Plus, we had an entire three course meal to dive into!

Adam started with the Clam Chowder served with spicy croutons and lardoons. I sampled a few bites, the broth lent a balanced consistency with permeating flavors of the sea and ample chunks of clam. In short, an excellent clam chowder.

The portion seemed a tad on the small side, especially so compared to my Lobster Arancini. To my delight plated were four crispy fried rice balls seasoned with chervil over avocado creme fraiche. A fine line is walked with such an Italian delicacy, I've had overdone arancini that becomes dry and pasty, luckily this was just the opposite. The risotto remained tender and moist infused with finely diced lobster adding that sweet succulent flavor to balance the ever so slightly sour notes of the avocado creme fraiche.

Neither of us could pass up the Moules Frites made with white wine, parsley and shallot in favor of the Scottish Salmon in a mushroom ragout, with red lentils and horseradish cream. We intended on a whole plate of mussels each, that's just how it was going down. An impressive proportion of both moules and frites graced us, piping hot with ringlets of shallots laced throughout the mussel shells and an abundant display of parsley on top. Adam loved the mussels instantly, but I wasn't completely enamored. They were standard in size, but at times tasted almost a little mealy. I hate to say it because they weren't bad, they just weren't blow-me-away-good. (Like the oysters were.) The creamy white wine broth was enjoyed by the spoonful once I cleared a path to the bottom of the dish. I think the plating made it difficult for the mussels to soak up the intended flavors of the broth. The true standout of this dish, were those frites. What more can I say that hasn't already been said about the beloved french fry? All too commonly I eat them, shapes and sizes abound, different shades of golden, varying textures of crispiness, proclaiming my love 8 ways till Sunday. B&G's embody all that I adore, standing out especially so with bright green specks of parsley clinging to individual strands. They are bursting with saltiness, crispy and deep fried, just greasy enough, dunked in cold ketchup and enjoyed to the utmost potential.

We were offered coffee with dessert and it was clear they brewed a fresh pot for us.

Our plan of attack for dessert was to share one of each. The Brown Butter Panna Cotta with its caramelized banana and candied almonds stole the show. Easily one of the best Panna Cottas I've ever had, the mouth feel with a slightly grainy consistency from the brown butter tickled my tongue before it melted down smooth, almost like ice cream. The texture was definitely more creamy than gelatinous and the flavors were exquisite. That's not to underestimate the Chocolate Cake with peanut butter mousse and peanut brittle because even though the Panna Cotta far and away surpassed, this was still a commendable dessert. Not too sweet nor cloyingly rich, both the density of the cake and the airiness of the peanut butter mousse gave a lighter twist on a classic ingredient pairing. The candied almonds in the former dessert and the peanut brittle in the latter served as a playful element that both elevated the dishes and nearly cracked a tooth.

Our meal was flawlessly paced, lasting about 2 hours in total. We lingered in between courses but never for too long. Our waitress had an interesting disposition about her, as she was not overly friendly or extremely bubbly, but had a more subdued quality in her approach that made me feel at ease. She smiled but not overly so, she was nice without forcing the charm.

B&G Oysters runs like a well oiled machine. I suppose this should comes as no surprise, when you have an entire restaurant able to watch your every move in the kitchen and on the floor, there is no other option. While restaurant week at B&G for the most part holds up its end of the bargain, there is no need to wait for a special occasion prix fix menu to enjoy this South End neighborhood gem. I'd be content to sip Grüner and shoot oysters at the bar any night of any week.

Other Indulge Inspire Imbibe Restaurant Week Reviews:

Mare (North End)
Sportello (Fort Point Channel)
Woodward (Downtown Crossing)
Vinoteca Di Monica (North End)