We were lead to the back corner of the room and seated at a long common table in front of the contemporary floor to ceiling windows and right next to the bustling open kitchen. Only semi jealous of those sitting at the actual counter tops, we had chairs with backs and a spot more conducive to conversation. First we decided on a bottle of the restaurant week red - Perrini Negroamaro ($32) from Puglia, Italy.
Monday, March 22, 2010
Restaurant Week at Sportello
I don't know a chef/restaurateur who's got a set up quite as innovative as Barbara Lynch with her two newest ventures in Boston's Fort Point. Talk about creativity, she opened an old fashioned prohibition type bar in an industrial basement space (Drink) which is connected to a modern interpretation of an Italian trattoria (Sportello) in the loft upstairs.
Establishing them in an up-and-coming neighborhood on the waterfront was a risk that has certainly paid off. Sportello for Restaurant Week with our friends Gretchen and Derek was the plan and Drink just so happened to draw us in for an aperitif.
A Monday night out is a lovely way to start off the work week. Adam and I strolled over from the North End, down Atlantic Avenue and crossed the Congress Street Bridge over Fort Point Channel. We arrived in about 20 minutes.
It wasn't the perfect weather for a stroll, but I think the city is beautiful, even in the drizzle and fog. It looks kind of mysterious, yes?
We meandered down into the subterranean space that houses Drink and found our friends already settled in at the bar with some cocktails. Much to my surprise, Drink does not have a drink menu. The changeable letter board is the closest thing to it.
Astrological signs that tell you what drink to order?! This excited me more than you can imagine! Alas, the true concept here is to tell the bartender what you like or are in the mood for and they will craft you a cocktail. I started with the facts: I like vodka. She pretty much read my mind from there. This is one of those scenarios where I believe it is essential to have an open mind and trust the bartender will take good care of you. While I was prepared a Moscow Mule with muddled lime and ginger beer, she explained this was the first vodka drink ever invented. The combination was new and enticing - three ingredients I love, but have never had all together. Psychic or a bartender? Is it possible that two of my most worshiped professions have melded into one at Drink?
You are immediately served a tiny glass of room temperature water to cleanse your palate.
This cocktail tasted just like she read my mind. Lately, I've been putting my feelers out there for a drink that isn't too sweet. The dirty martini always works, but that stands in a caliber all it's own. This is it. The Moscow Mule awed and inspired. The bartender shared another fun fact that none of us knew. Muddling fruit dates back to the times of prohibition where bathtub gin was prevalent and drink mixers were not. Fruit was unassuming and an easy way to add flavor to the illegally smuggled alcohol. Can you imagine living during a time where booze was illegal? That sure isn't the case now, but you could have fooled me sitting in this dimly lit basement warehouse where the scene behind the bar looks like this:
I don't know what you're talking about, no alcohol here! Had we not been heading upstairs to fulfill our reservations, I am sure we would have gotten a history lesson on the evolution of more drinks. As our reservation time approached we made our way upstairs to Sportello, Adam and Derek with their Old Fashioned's in hand. Sportello is the Italian word for 'counter service'. This is impeccably fitting for Restaurant Week dinner #2. (You may recall last week I was dining at the Italian word for Sea.) We were greeted by retro globe light fixtures that hung evenly over a shiny white lacquered counter top zig-zagging throughout a clean stylish space.
The small black bar stools were full of lively urbanites no doubt enjoying a three course meal.
We were lead to the back corner of the room and seated at a long common table in front of the contemporary floor to ceiling windows and right next to the bustling open kitchen. Only semi jealous of those sitting at the actual counter tops, we had chairs with backs and a spot more conducive to conversation. First we decided on a bottle of the restaurant week red - Perrini Negroamaro ($32) from Puglia, Italy.
From Southern Italy or "the boot" this organic red wine is full of deep berry and ripe plums flavors balanced with a hint of limestone.
Fresh baked bread was served with a creamy ricotta cheese and olive oil laced spread, topped with syrupy soaked apricots.
This was a fantastic starting point, the bread came soft and warm and the spread was an exquisite balance of sweet and savory flavors as well a light and fluffy yet substantial consistency.
I had three slices.
Good thing I didn't hold back on the bread basket, because the courses themselves are quite small. For my appetizer I chose the Smoked Salmon with creme fraiche and celery root.
The salmon was beautifully prepared, its smokiness balanced by the bright, clean flavors of the creme fraiche and celery root. This was a refreshing first course that I appreciated didn't leave me feeling heavy as I awaited my entree.
The boys both had the Baby Mixed Greens with mustard vinaigrette, walnut creme and rye croutons.
In fact, the boys had the same of every course. There are only two options for each so the descisions are fairly easy ones to make. You are also given the option of a four course tasting for $44.10. We stuck with three each at the standard $33.10. You know me and my love of pork, I figured I could not go wrong with the Pork Belly with a fennel and parsnip salad and salsa verde.
Again, the entree portions are modest in size, however bold in flavor. I appreciated the range of textures on the belly, from the brittle rind to the soft fatty layer, this delicate slice was perfectly executed . The subtly sweet fennel and parsnips along with the fresh salsa verde emulsion were nice compliments to the rich savory pork.
Gretchen loved her pasta dish of Raffetta with roasted eggplant, pancetta and a goat cheese fondu.
Adam and Derek seemed to enjoy their Crispy Duck Leg as well, served with polenta cake, beet greens and duck jus. With clean flavors and delectably tender duck, again this was a success taste wise but I couldn't help but wonder if they were still hungry!
We were offered coffee before dessert was served, I chose an espresso.
The dessert course - in typical fashion was the Cookie Plate for the guys,
and the Chocolate Walnut Torta with salted caramel for the girls.
While it did not blow me away, this was still delicious and I ate every last bite. I am not a huge fan of walnuts so perhaps that swayed my affections.
Sportello also boasts a bakery counter, so we expected a lot from the cookies and they lived up to that expectation, tasting fresh and chewy. Since Adam doesn't like coconut, I got to eat his macaroon. And when he couldn't finish his chocolate chip cookie - I took that in a to-go bag and ate it for breakfast!
Another highlight of the evening was being able to observe the happenings in the kitchen.
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Sportello embodies the characteristics of a classic Italian trattoria with a modern twist. Its energetic atmosphere, less formal counter style dining and a modest presentation of superb food make for a unique and fun occasion.
Barbara Lynch was no where in site, but her creative vision resonates in every aspect of the experience.
I've gotten my Sportello dinner fix - but I have big plans to return and sit at the counter top for lunch. And I definitely need more of Drinks drink's and psychic mixologists in my life ASAP.
We were lead to the back corner of the room and seated at a long common table in front of the contemporary floor to ceiling windows and right next to the bustling open kitchen. Only semi jealous of those sitting at the actual counter tops, we had chairs with backs and a spot more conducive to conversation. First we decided on a bottle of the restaurant week red - Perrini Negroamaro ($32) from Puglia, Italy.
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