Sunday, April 17, 2011

Garden at The Cellar...Finally!

I say finally with an exclamation point because for over a year now, I've had a gift certificate burning a hole in my wallet and I'm not quite sure how it sat around for so long. Given to me as a birthday gift from two of my dear friends back when the blog was just a baby (barely a month old!) and up-and-coming chef Will Gilson was just a name in an article that Lisa handed me along with the gift certificate. Since then, I've heard nothing but fantastic reviews of Garden at The Cellar and constant praise for Chef Will Gilson. Now hes up-and-come; there is no denying locals know this James Beard Award nominee chef by name. Whether for his dedication to cooking with local, sustainable food and family grown herbs, or his successful efforts to rebuild his mothers greenhouses, or his recent embrace for the Pop Up dinner trend, his name gets around. Joined by my sister this past Wednesday, we experienced firsthand his creative cuisine in the relaxed unassuming gastropub situated in between Cambridge's Central and Harvard Squares. They take limited reservations for parties over six, otherwise seats are on a first come first serve basis. The place was fairly busy around 7:30 but we managed to get seated right away at an open copper top cafe table in front of some overflowing succulents and potted herbs. I spy a recycled St. Germain Bottle behind the aloe plants.
We started with two slices of bread each and some herb infused butter. A nice touch with the herbs if you ask me!We got down to business with a Dark & Stormy ($7.50) each as we studied the menu. (Made with Gosling's Black Seal Rum & Ginger beer, oh yes.)The $7.50 price tag didn't have me wincing. Actually, all of their cocktails clock in at a reasonable $7 - $10. We chose two appetizers to share. The Seared Scallops ($12) presented three wonderfully cooked garlicky scallops reaping the benefits of thick brush strokes of earthy black trumpet puree. Contrasting bites of Meyer lemon in tiny gel form added small punches of bright zesty flavor. With a crisp sear that fades into golden, these scallops are something to marvel at up close. The entire plate was a work of art. Speaking of work of art, the Foie Gras & Doughnuts ($13) was a whimsically plated far fetched idea pairing two delicious ingredients together at random. It works. And amazingly well at that. Fluffy round balls of cinnamon sugar become a vessel for rich, buttery bites of seared foie gras. With cocoa nibs, orange and ginger creating fascinating flavor combinations and texture profiles, it was like a carnival for the taste buds. Quite the adventurous dish fully of whimsy and fun, I was really really impressed. I took a close up of "this" and I put "this" in quotes because I honestly have no idea what it is. It tasted like an adult version of a fruit rollup and looked like a dragon!
Leah ordered the Grass Fed Hanger Steak Frites ($26) without hesitation. The generous portion of hanger steak came perfectly cooked and well seasoned plated over a bed of parsnip puree and garlic spinach. But it was the thin cut rosemary truffle frites that we were both immediately drawn to. These are the epitome of a perfect fry; crispy and buttery seasoned with sophistication and restraint - just an accent of rosemary and truffle oil. Leah wasn't too keen on the texture of the steak, stating even though it was cooked to her liking, it was awkwardly chewy. Unaware at the time but now looking back at the menu, I'm thinking that might be attributed to the fact that this is grass fed beef. Better for the environment, the cows and us humans, it's usually a win-win-win situation, right? Perhaps the taste takes some getting used to, and perhaps it is just not for everyone. Despite her distaste for texture, she still enjoyed the dish, raving about the parsnip puree and spinach every bite of the way. I debated between the Buttermilk Poached Chicken ($23) and the Duo of Heritage Pork ($26). I asked my waitresses for a recommend hoping she'd be able to offer some insight and sway my decision one way or the other. She remained indifferent, and without exclamation or passion stated "they're both good." (Well obviously they're both good! Thanks!)I went with the pork. It was a good call. This is a dish I'd get excited about and tell you to order if I were waitressing here!! The meat was unbelievable, bursting with rustic flavor and the execution was top notch. The ramps are a springtime vegetable with a pungent oniony taste, they served to add some sharp contrast to the white heavy meal of pork and potatoes.
Plated over a violet mustard sauce, the thinly pounded cutlets were cooked scallopini style with garlic and black pepper. Two cutlets were one too many for me, but for a someone with a larger appetite you get a generous amount of food. The grilled belly was extremely tender with a rich glaze atop the crispy skin exterior.
The earthy fingerling potatoes were a simple yet exciting element of the dish. I don't know about you but I just love that satisfying moment of cutting into a perfectly roasted potato, the snap of the skin that you can actually hear - these potatoes had it going on.
There was definitely another round of Dark & Stormys ordered during the meal. These drinks go down way to easy. I guess that's why I love them so.No dessert menu here (bummer!) but they look to satisfy your sweet tooth with a plate of Taza Chocolates (redemption!) Showcasing local food in creative dishes without the luxurious atmosphere or price point, Garden at The Cellar remains affordable and relaxed. No matter what, I would not hesitate to order a side of those rosemary truffle fries and to remember that adventurous eating most definitely pays off at this modest neighborhood gastropub.
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